Our next accomodation was in B&B Castello di Strambinello. This small holding is private and peaceful and the host is wonderful. We got to the hotel late in the evening and were greeted by Santino and his adorable dogs. Our apartments were large, comfortable, and very quiet. I would highly recommend a stay in this house–which was saved from collapse and lovingly restored. The breakfast is held in the cozy dining room and cooked to order by Santino. Conversation between the guests was lively and we were given the tip to visit Damanhur which is nearby.
On a crisp autumn day, we drove to Verres Castle. The castle is perched atop a hill in the charming town of Verres, Italy. This medieval marvel, steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking scenery.
The climb to the castle was no easy feat, but with each step, anticipation grew, fueled by the desire to uncover the secrets held within these ancient walls.
Reaching the summit, we were greeted by the imposing façade straight out of a storybook. Dating back to the 14th century, this fortress has witnessed centuries of tumultuous history, from noble families to battles and conquests.
Stepping inside, we were transporteded back in time. The castle’s interior was a maze of corridors, chambers, and courtyards, each corner whispering tales of its storied past. From the great halls adorned with medieval artifacts to the intimate chapel displaying religious relics, every room exuded an air of mystery and grandeur.
What struck me most about Verres Castle was its authenticity. Unlike some tourist attractions that feel staged, this castle retained its raw, unfiltered character—a testament to its enduring legacy. The preservation efforts were evident, allowing visitors like myself to immerse fully in its medieval ambiance.
After exploring every nook and cranny, we descended from the castle and had an excellent lunch at a local trattoria.
If you find yourself in the Aosta Valley, don’t miss the chance to visit Verres Castle. It’s more than a tourist attraction; it’s a portal to another era, a gateway to a world of knights and kings, waiting to be explored.
Fort Bard
After Verres we drove to Fort Bard. We were surprised to find Halloween decorations in town.
On the approach to the castle, we were struck by its commanding presence. Perched atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the charming village of Bard, the castle’s rugged stone walls and imposing towers hinted at a storied past filled with legends and tales of noble families.
Nestled in the scenic Aosta Valley, Fort Bard commands attention from its rocky perch above the town of Bard—a testament to centuries of strategic importance. Built in the 19th century by the House of Savoy and meticulously restored, the fort now welcomes visitors as the captivating Museum of the Alps.
The history of Fort Bard is steeped in resilience and intrigue. Originally established by Theodoric I in the 5th century, the fortress evolved over time, culminating in the construction of the current complex by Charles Albert of Savoy between 1830 and 1838. This formidable stronghold replaced a 10th-century castle and played a key role in controlling the historic route between Italy and France.
Fort Bard’s most remarkable chapter unfolded in May 1800, during Napoleon Bonaparte’s campaign. Against all odds, 400 Austro-Piedmontese soldiers stationed at the fort held off a 40,000-strong French army for two weeks, thwarting Napoleon’s plans for a surprise attack on the Po Valley and Turin. Enraged by this setback, Napoleon famously dubbed the fort “vilain castel de Bard” and ordered its destruction—an order that was later reversed.
The fort’s reconstruction was entrusted to Italian military engineer Francesco Antonio Olivero, who crafted a formidable stronghold with two distinct levels.
Visiting Fort Bard is an immersive experience. The museum within the complex delves into the history of the Alps and hosts art exhibitions and cultural events, adding vibrancy to this window into history.
Today we embarked on a captivating journey back in time at Fénis Castle, nestled in Aosta Valley. In the dreary fog and rain, the castle’s ancient stones seemed to resonate with history and mystique, beckoning us to step into a world of knights and noble feasts.
As we approached the castle, its silhouette emerged from the mist like something out of a fairy tale—a majestic manor house with towering turrets and double-crenellated walls, proudly standing on a gentle hill surrounded by verdant meadows. Unlike other castles built for defense, Fénis Castle was once the opulent residence of the illustrious Challant family, where administrative prowess merged with noble luxury.
Stepping inside, we were immediately struck by the grandeur of the interiors. Giant fireplaces and vast cooking hearths dominated the kitchen area, hinting at the sumptuous banquets and lavish feasts that once graced these halls. The castle’s architecture was a testament to medieval ingenuity, with its pentagonal layout and circular turrets, showcasing the artistic vision of Aimone di Challant in the 14th century.
The highlight of our visit was the breathtaking courtyard—a true masterpiece of medieval artistry. Adorned with frescoes depicting saints and sages, the courtyard whispered stories of bygone eras, where power and refinement intertwined seamlessly.
An entire cow could be roasted on the left side where the flagstones are. The hood is among the largest in Europe at nearly 18 meters high. This fireplace was used to heat the entire castle as well as to smoke meat for preservation. There is also a door inside it. Fenis castle dates to 1242.
After our enchanting tour of the castle, we had a lovely lunch of traditional dishes at Le Bourg Trattoria.
Built in 1710 on the ruins of a fortress mentioned as early as 1242, having passed through various hands, the property was purchased by the King of Italy Victor Emanuel II, who renovated it and used it during hunting expeditions in Val d’Aosta.
The royal castle of Sarre, after becoming the private property of the Savoys, was used as their headquarters for expeditions in the valleys of Cogne, Rhêmes and Valsavarenche. As you can see, he hunted chamois, ibex and other game almost to extinction.
This place is reminiscent of a twisted fairytale. I had thoughts of Beauty stepping through the grand doorway into a ballroom filled with thousands upon thousands of animal skulls. It’s all quite demented and over the top.
Personally, I wasn’t into the thousands of dead animal skulls and horns…but I can’t say it wasn’t unique.
No trip to Courmayeur would be complete without an ascent to Monte Bianco. Luckily, we had near perfect visibility.
Skyway Monte Bianco is a cable car in the Italian Alps that links the town of Courmayeur with Pointe Helbronner on the southern side of Mont Blanc massif. Taking over three years to construct, it opened in 2015 at a cost of 110 million euros, and is considered to be the world’s most expensive cable car installation.
The Monte Bianco Skyway is a one of a kind way to experience the tallest peak in Italy. Must do when in the area.
This year we had planned an extensive journey through Egypt to see the ancient sights along the Nile. When fighting broke out in Gaza, we decided to cancel the trip on the advice of friends who live in Cairo.
That gave us less than two weeks to pivot if we wanted a vacation. My first instinct was Italy, but we wanted to see a region we hadn’t experienced before. Enter Piedmonte in the North. Fall weather, food festivals, and a sleepy slow food and wine tour seemed ideal.
Well, here we are in our first stop—a luxurious mountain chalet at the foot of Monte Bianco. This was a long drive from Milan, but so worth it. Just look at the pyramids nature has created! We arrived on a picture perfect day and we’re treated to one of the best views of our lives. I kind of don’t want to leave the hotel!
We are staying at Auberge de la Maison, some 300 meters away from Skyway Monte Bianco.
The view from our room is nothing short of stunning! And the staff here is wonderful.
So it’s been ages since I wrote about my Italian adventures earlier this year. After Venice, my days became pretty hectic and I didn’t have time to write. I thought I’d return to the blog sooner, but life has kept me pretty busy. I’m now back in the US and thinking about my journey so I’m picking up where I left off. If you’re still reading, thanks!
After departing Orvieto on March 27th, 2022, I drove to Maremma so I could spend a few blissful days decompressing in Saturnia. The weather would have other plans, but alas, I digress. On the way to Saturnia, I stopped in medieval Pitigliano. I had bought a delicious porchetta sandwich from a salumeria in Orvieto, and I thought I’d work off the calories on the streets of this Tuscan gem.
A Little About Pitigliano
Carved from volcanic stone, the town of Pitigliano is located near the thermal mineral waters of Bagno San Filipo. In 2021, I read a gothic romance written by Ouida (Maria Louise Ramé) titled In Maremma which sparked my curiosity about this portion of Tuscany. If you are looking for a gothic novel set in Italy, this book is a must. Musa, the star-crossed and defiant heroine, is a character you won’t soon forget.
If you are interested in learning a little more about Ouida (who moved to Italy from England), I recommend reading The Epitome And Portrait Of Modern Society: Ouida As Social Barometer Of The Victorian Era by Lorraine Michelle Dubuisson from the University of Mississippi. After reading several of her books, she’s become one of my favorite 19th Century authors.
Until the 19th century, the southern Tuscan area known as the Maremma was an inhospitable wasteland. Notoriously marshy, the area was plagued by black clouds of mosquitos infected with malaria and overrun by bandits. The Maremma was seen as a backwater and snubbed by Italians who preferred the milder and more tamed areas of northern and western Tuscany. In the 20th century, efforts to drain the marshes and cures for malaria turned this forgotten land into a desirable destination. Astonishingly fertile, the Maremma now yields a wealth of produce. Whereas Tuscany’s north is a magnet for tourists interested in cultural treasures, the Maremma’s hearty, wholesome food and wine attract gourmands from around the globe.
The countryside in the Maremma is truly stunning and unless you’re dipping into Saturnia at night, you’ll survive the mosquitos (more on this later).
Pitigliano is carved into the volcanic rock (tufo) and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Known as Little Jerusalem due to the large Jewish community that thrived within its walls in the 16th century, this Tuscan jewel lies at the crossroads of the Lente, Meleta, and Prochio valleys. Legend suggests that the ancient town was founded by a pair of thieves, Petilio and Celiano, who fled Rome after stealing Jupiter’s golden crown. The duo took refuge in the countryside caves beneath Pitigliano (I did say the Maremma was notorious for bandits), founding a community named Petiliano. The origins of the town date back to the Neolithic Age and later the Etruscans. The Etruscans favored plateaus, caves, and highly defensible areas (just look at Civita di Bagnoreggio & Orvieto) and hand-excavated their homes from the volcanic rock.
My first glimpse of this village from the parking lot was breathtaking.
When in Pitigliano, prepare to make very sharp turns as you scale toward the top. Whatever you do, don’t drive thorugh the main gate or you will face some serious penalties. Park outside of town in designated parking lots and walk.
Once inside the town, you will be treated to a feast of ancient architechture and winding alleyways bedecked with flowers. Unlike Spello, which is a bit too “Disney” for me, Pitigliano feels very much lived in. This is a working city that hasn’t yet been overrun by tourism. The views over the valley from its piazzas are stunning.
Pitigliano Real Estate
If you like cave homes and close quarter living within ancient walls, you’ll fall in love with this small town. If you like tall regal ceilings, vast palazzos, gardens, and parking spaces, you should look elsewhere. Pitigliano is a warren of tight alleyways and tiny dwellings. A bit of speluncaphobia is necessary to live like a proper Etruscan.
You can buy a home in the centro for under 200K like this cave home (198K). I actually walked to the front door of this one while I was there and it’s on a really cute street close to everything. Perhaps by the time you read this, it will be sold…but it’s still a good example of what your money can buy. Since I was in Italy, the Euro has fallen dramatically against the dollar so it’s never been a better time to buy. As I write this, 1 EUR is worth 0.99 USD.
Here is a restored pied-a-terre with a little terrace for 158K. This one is smaller but more light-filled.
I’m a gardening and nature fanatic and towns like Pitigliano just feel too claustrophobic for me. I live in the middle of the woods right now, so this would require some serious thought. I’m not sure I’m ready to be surrouned by endless stone. Trees are very important to me. As a vacation place, the lack of a major airport within striking distance puts Southern Tuscany at a disadvantage. I would want to be able to get to a Freccia Rossa train station and international airport within an hour.
Orsini Palace, Pitigliano
There are a few sights in Pitigliano you shouldn’ t miss. One of those is the Orsini Palace. Founded in the 15th Century, the palace was enlarged by Count Niccolo II Orsini and modified in the 1500’s by Niccolo IV. Twenty one rooms are open to the public where you will glimpse restored frescoes, original furniture, jewelry, and objects of art. This gorgeous place is well worth the € 5.00 entry fee.
Finally, My Sandwich With A View
I unwrapped my pork sandwich which was warm from sitting in the car, and just wow. Between my hunger, the amazing flavor of the slow braised pork, and the view, I was in heaven. In Italy, the simplest food tastes divine.
I began the day by seeking out a proper Venetian breakfast. I found an adorable bakery and sat down. Needless to say I was not disappointed!
Afterward, I headed across town to Dorsoduro to visit the Gallerie dell’Accademia which houses the Vetruvian Man. I had blazed through there some twenty years prior and honestly didn’t remember much. I did, however, recall that the famous “Caga Libri” (Book Shitter) was in the vicinity and I was determined to find him.
The Cagalibri
I laughed so hard the first time I heard about this statue. Italians have a knack for making fun of art they don’t like by assigning funny names. Take Il Biancone in Florence, for example, or the Wedding Cake in Rome. The Caga Libri is no different. The statue of Niccolo Tommaseo, a famed linguist and journalist, stands prominently in Campo Santo Stefano. Sculpted by Francesco Barzaghi, the Carrara marble statue is one of three monuments carved to commemorate the 1848 revolution. The pile of books seemingly coming out from the writer’s coattails has given the monument a most undignified monicker. Leave it to Italians to find humor in just about everything.
Among my favorite works in the Galleria were Bosch’s Hermit Saints Triptych, the Mythological Scenes by Tiepolo especially those involving randy satyrs, Sebastiano Ricci’s Bacchanal in Honor of Pan, Francesco Zuccarelli’s Bacchanal, Antonio Joli’s Perspective of Thermal Baths, and Tintoretto’s St. George and the Dragon in which the princess seems to be enjoying that serpent between her legs a bit too much. Canova’s Paris had a perfect ass…seriously.
The day was beautiful and I didn’t want to miss lunch al fresco, so around 1:30 I left and sought a quay-side restaurant in Fondamenta Zattere. On the way, I passed the Squero San Trovaso (boatyard) which is one of only two squeri left in Venice where gondolas can be mended and built.
At Alle Zattere Pizzeria I ordered the cicchetti and the canneloni. Both were excellent as my pigeon friend can attest. I broke the rules and fed the poor fellow. The view was wonderful and the sun was shining and I felt lucky to be alive.
I took my time getting lost on the way back and explored Dorsoduro. I passed lovely bars, florists, and countless stores selling beautiful handicrafts. Later on, that night as I pondered this house hunt I looked up the rent in Venice and discovered that you could find a decent place for 750€/month which is pretty awesome. Maybe we’ll just live in Venice for a year.
My friend gave me a great tip when we had dinner and suggested I go up to the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi shopping center’s rooftop terrace to enjoy the views. The rooftop terrace is free but must be reserved in advance. The views are unbelievable. Sadly, my phone was out of battery and I couldn’t snap pictures.
That evening I made reservations at Ristorante Pizzeria Antico Gatoleto, a trattoria/pizzeria with very good reviews. I sat next to a lovely mother and daughter pair and had a wonderful conversation during dinner. One of the things I love about Venice is how worldly it is. The average resident often speaks three or more languages. Amazing.
Seafood antipasto
After dinner, a very cute waiter tried to take me home with him. He was very sad when I told him I was married. Italians are charming, I’ll give them that.
I took my time walking back to St. Mark’s feeling just a bit sad that I needed to head back to Orvieto the next day. Venice at night takes on a gothic and mysterious quality that I adore. I stayed out till midnight snapping pictures and enjoying the magic.
Here are some of my best nighttime shots, made me wish that I had a better lens than an iPhone, but I made it work.
The following day, I met K for breakfast, then made my way to the market. The Venetian farmer’s market is a wonder to behold. The sheer beauty and abundance of the products available are astounding. Cheeses, meats, fruits, herbs, fish, nuts, bread, pastries–it’s all for grabs here at awesome prices. I was seduced by the strawberries and tomatoes, both of which I bought. I also picked up a live basil plant which I managed to keep alive till the end of my trip. That little plant provided a lot of Caprese salads. So yes, I carried a bag of groceries from Venice all the way back to Orvieto. Those strawberries were worth it. I can get why Italians shop daily. The food is just so much tastier when it’s fresh.
God and Universe willing, it won’t be another 20 years before I return to Venice. I’m thinking maybe this fall?
I leave you with a quote by the infamous courtesan Veronica Franco.
“We danced our youth in a dreamed of city, Venice, paradise, proud and pretty. We lived for love and lust and beauty, pleasure then our only duty. Floating them twixt heaven and Earth…”
On March 17 I headed to Spoleto. The day was a bit gray but the rain held off as I drove through the mountain pass from Acquasparta. The road was a serpentine roller coaster straight out of a car commercial. Every turn revealed a little sliver of the majestic countryside. The drive put me in a zen kind of mood, apropos considering the only music actually downloaded on my iPhone was an album of Tibetan singing bowls. The hum of the bowls went rather well with the view of the mountains.
One section of the mechanized escalator tunnels
After parking in one of the public lots at the bottom of the hill, I walked to the mechanized plaza and began to ascend. I was very glad for the escalators as it would have taken hours to walk up to the Rocca. Even from the point where the escalators stopped, it was another 180 steps to the top.
The Rocca Albornoziana is an imposing fortress that stands on Colle Sant’Elia, strategically towering over the Spoleto valley. Its construction started in 1359 at the behest of Pope Innocent VI to re-affirm the papal authority in central Italy. The fortress became the cornerstone of the defensive system that controlled the Via Flaminia, from which military campaigns were launched to recover lost areas of Umbria, Marche, and Romagna.
Gazing at this gargantuan castle it’s impossible not to dwell on how much time, blood, and money has been spent in waging war. All of these castles that we romanticize are nothing if not the concrete manifestation of humanity’s thirst for greed, power, and destruction. Throughout history, the will of the powerful has resulted in much suffering. Speaking of suffering, the Rocca was a jailhouse from 1816 to 1982. During the 80s, an extensive restoration returned the Rocca to its original layout. Sadly, many of its pictorial treasures were lost by this time.
I learned that the Rocca houses a prestigious school to train students in book restoration. Students here learn the technical art of paper, document, and book preservation.
Lucrezia Borgia
One of the Rocca’s most famous inhabitants and ruler in her own right was the much-demonized femme fatale, Lucrezia Borgia. Lucrezia was the daughter of Pope Alexander VI (aka Rodrigo di Borgia) and his longtime mistress Vanozza dei Cattanei. Lucrezia’s hand was used to vie for power among the ruling families three times. Her first husband was Giovanni Sforza who held sway in Pesaro and Gradara. When the political winds changed in Rome, Pope Alexander VI bribed the Sforzas with a king’s ransom to annul the marriage. The Sforza elders then forced Giovanni to confess he was impotent and that he had never consummated the marriage. Unlike Giovanni, Lucrezia’s other husbands didn’t fare so well.
Lucrezia’s second husband, Alfonso d’Aragon, was cornered in an alleyway and stabbed in the back by assassins hired by her brother Cesare.
Lucrezia Borgia then married her 3rd husband, Alfonso d’Este, Duke of Ferrara. This marriage produced ten children but failed to quench her lust and she was reputed to have had many affairs. Modern-day historians tend to view her as a victim who was manipulated by her father and brothers, but I’m not so sure. She was a savvy businesswoman and intensely intelligent–a mover and a shaker not beyond using all her wiles to get her way. In 1499, her efforts paid off and she rose to become the Governor of Spoleto. When her father became Pope, Lucrezia was entrusted with the administration of all of the Vatican’s correspondence. Click here to read more about her life.
Inside the Rocca
The Rocca houses the Ducal Museum which features several masterpieces of Medieval art as well as icons and an archaeological section with excavated artifacts from earlier periods. At the Rocca you can purchase a pass for all the museums of Spoleto that saves you money on admission. I took advantage of this and visited almost all of the sites on the list. The views from the top are awesome.
After the Rocca, I wandered down through the warren of streets and began to discover this fascinating city. One of my favorite monuments was the Fontana di Mascherone known simply as Il Mascherone (the big mask). An inscription on it states that it was restored in 1736 suggesting that the fountain is much older. On the right, another small fountain bears the inscription “BIBE VIATOR” (drink, ye traveler), an invitation to quench one’s thirst.
Il Mascherone
Spoleto’s architecture is a wonderful hodgepodge of epochs. Along my walk, I passed the huge foundation stones of a former Templar cathedral (now someone’s courtyard), a palace reminiscent of Venice, countless churches, arching bridges, and peaceful piazzas. I paused here and there to peruse the wares of the shops as well.
Of course, all that walking made me hungry, and soon it was time for vino. At lunchtime the square smelled amazing, I kid you not. A little bit of garlic, a little bit of rosemary, roasted meat, and a hint of wood smoke. I stopped at a little place off the main square with an intriguing facade called Osteria del Matto and I was not disappointed. The menu of the day was beyond tasty. The meal began with a little slice of fresh sheep’s cheese and was followed by a selection of salumi and cheese, followed by mushrooms done three ways, followed by a farro risotto, a ricotta fritter, and finally a stunning pasta dish. The ordeal took almost two hours which was fine as I spent the time chatting with Tomasso, a fellow diner. Tomasso helps artists find residencies in the city and works closely with them to find them lodging etc. Fascinating guy. After this caloric insanity, it was time to KEEP walking.
After lunch, I visited the Roman house, an accidental and monumental discovery beneath the town hall. The space is tiny but so well preserved. I’m always awed by Roman mosaics. These people had serious patience to line up all those tiny tesserae into such beautiful patterns.
To continue the theme, I made my way to the Roman theater. The theatre at Spoleto dates from the middle of the first century BC and is built on a large artificial terrace. The oldest parts of the theatre were made from opus caementicium or Roman concrete and blocks of local limestone and bricks.
As I made my way to the Palazzo Callicola, I was stopped by an old man who tried to pick me up in a very charming way. When I tell him I have a husband, he scoffs. “One husband,” he says in Italian, “Bah. You look like you can handle several more friends.” The nerve!
Hilarious.
Palazzo Callicola is an edgy gallery that blends piano nobile with modern art. I’m not a huge fan of abstract art, but some of the pieces here were thought-provoking. I especially liked the gothic red lights in that hall of frescoes with all the upturned furniture. I got a lot of inspiration from the green crescent wallpaper which I think I may transform into a textile.
On my way out I stopped at the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The cathedral sits in a beautiful large square with plenty of room to breathe. I imagine that during the Festival of Two Worlds, this space is packed solid with people.
The Spoleto Cathedral was built at the end of the 12th century. Earlier, on this place, was an ancient Christian temple dedicated to the martyr Primiano di Larino. The crypt of San Primiano, from the 9th century, represents the only remaining element of the building that stood on this place.
Saint Primianus or Primianus of Larino (Italian: San Primiano or Primiano Martire) (d. 15 May 303 or 304) is the patron saint of Lesina, Apulia, in Italy. He is also a joint patron saint, with Saint Pardus, of Larino in the province of Campobasso. His feast day is celebrated in both places on 15 May with fireworks and music, but 28 April is the date elsewhere.
And with that, I concluded my day in this artistic corner of the world.
It feels strange to start a blog about my dreams and an upcoming trip to Italy just as war has broken out in Eastern Europe. Even as I type this I’m listening to the BBC Livestream about the evolving situation in Ukraine. Wars are horrific beasts with no concern for boundaries or human life. Military conflicts have a way of escalating until they become bonfires that consume everything in their wake. Watching Russians roll out mobile incinerators just as I am packing my bags made me feel an incredible sense of powerlessness. My excitement to go on my second-ever solo trip is tinged with anxiety, but I am more determined than ever to make it count.
If there is one thing I’ve learned from the last two years is that life is short. To quote Jim Morrison, “The future is uncertain and the end is always near.”
Early in 2020, my husband was laid off from his job after many years of loyal service. This blow coupled with a series of challenging family situations began a lengthy debate regarding our future and what we wanted out of life. We felt blessed to have the privilege to be able to make a life shift but had no idea what that change might look like. At 46 and 49, respectively, my husband and I became acutely aware that we weren’t getting any younger.
Eight years ago, my husband placed a magnet on the fridge in the shape of a speedometer with numbers ranging from 20-50. Beneath the number 50 in bright red letters is written the word RETIREMENT. Eight months before his 50th birthday, we are at a crossroads. Do we take the path least traveled or do we continue doing what society tells us we should? Do we choose courage or fear? The familiar or the unknown?
Almost every time we talked about doing something crazy and changing our lives, moving to Italy would inevitably come up. We often joked about buying a 1€ house and fixing it up. We daydreamed about cappuccino and dolci fueled mornings and lazy afternoons spent exploring European capitals.
Dreams aside, the reality of moving from one continent to another is not an easy decision. We have our family and friends to consider as well as our cat. Then there is our house in the Hudson Valley which we absolutely adore. On paper, Italy seems like an ideal place for early retirement. Italians don’t pay property taxes on their primary homes and have a very good (and affordable) healthcare system. Geographically speaking, Rome is a convenient hub for visiting all the places on our bucket list. A life where we don’t have to be glued to our computers also promises to be more active and healthier. Finally, Italy’s great year round weather, amazing food, and cultural richness is compelling.
Through the years we’ve visited Italy more than any other country. I first traveled there in 1990 when I was fifteen. The two-week whirlwind tour with my High School Italian Club began in Venice and ended in Naples with stops in Umbria, Tuscany, and San Marino. To this day I can recall the moment my jaw hit the floor as I looked up at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. All of Italy felt like a beautiful dream I didn’t want to wake up from.
Some years later my would-be husband wound up in Milan while working for Donna Karan and had similar revelations. We had both fallen in love with Italy long before we fell for each other. In fact, one of the first international trips we took together was to the Venetian Carnival of 2002.
As we explored our Italian options during the lockdown, I came across an article that said anyone with a blood relative born in Italy after 1848 could claim Italian citizenship. I mentioned this to my husband and he became intrigued. He knew he was half Italian, but didn’t know the family history. He immediately contacted his mom who had in her possession countless family records. Within a month, they gathered a treasure trove of paperwork including marriage certificates, photos, and naturalization records. His great grandfather Salvatore Garzillo and his Hungarian wife Barbara emigrated from Campobasso via the Port of Naples and entered the US through Ellis Island. Salvatore, known to friends and family as Solly, settled in the Bronx and became a mason and electrician. One of his daughters (the little girl on the right) became my husband’s grandmother.
After sorting the paperwork, my husband contacted My Italian Family, an agency specializing in Italian citizenships based out of New Hope, PA. After reviewing his case, they concluded that he was a good candidate for citizenship. Because he is a descendant of a female ancestor, the evidence must be presented in an Italian court and the case files translated into Italian. This has added to the cost, but we’re well on our way to proving his Italian descent.
For the last two years, we’ve devoured every article and blog post both positive and negative about a potential move to Italy. In June 2020 we traveled to Frosinone and came close to buying a stunning albeit dilapidated palace. We loved the house but weren’t sold on the location. Luckily for us, we were working with a superstar real estate agent who helped us every step of the way. I cannot recommend Via Vecchia enough. If you’re thinking of buying a home in Frosinone, there is no better team than Kylie and Antonio. Love them!
Here we are in the living room of the house we almost bought.
As the disappointment faded, I jumped back into the house hunt. This time, I focused my efforts north of Rome in the provinces of Viterbo, Terni, and Perugia. This is an area that we’ve visited several times and which we adore. Two hours from Rome and within driving distance to the Saturnia Terme is ideal. We love historic properties and aren’t scared of a bit of work. Every single property on my list is charming in its own way.
This journey is half research and half fun. Sure, I want to find answers to the existential questions that have plagued us for the last two years, but I also just want to live a little. Travel recharges my creative batteries, and Lord knows they need a reboot.
During the next forty-three days, I’ll be trekking Lazio, Tuscany, and Umbria to figure out if Italy is for us.
Can we live there? Yes. Do we want to? Time will tell.
Thus, I invite you to tag along with me for forty-three days and share my adventures.
