Two Divine Days In La Serenissima: Day Two

I began the day by seeking out a proper Venetian breakfast. I found an adorable bakery and sat down. Needless to say I was not disappointed!

Afterward, I headed across town to Dorsoduro to visit the Gallerie dell’Accademia which houses the Vetruvian Man. I had blazed through there some twenty years prior and honestly didn’t remember much. I did, however, recall that the famous “Caga Libri” (Book Shitter) was in the vicinity and I was determined to find him.

I laughed so hard the first time I heard about this statue. Italians have a knack for making fun of art they don’t like by assigning funny names. Take Il Biancone in Florence, for example, or the Wedding Cake in Rome. The Caga Libri is no different. The statue of Niccolo Tommaseo, a famed linguist and journalist, stands prominently in Campo Santo Stefano. Sculpted by Francesco Barzaghi, the Carrara marble statue is one of three monuments carved to commemorate the 1848 revolution. The pile of books seemingly coming out from the writer’s coattails has given the monument a most undignified monicker. Leave it to Italians to find humor in just about everything.

Among my favorite works in the Galleria were Bosch’s Hermit Saints Triptych, the Mythological Scenes by Tiepolo especially those involving randy satyrs, Sebastiano Ricci’s Bacchanal in Honor of Pan, Francesco Zuccarelli’s Bacchanal, Antonio Joli’s Perspective of Thermal Baths, and Tintoretto’s St. George and the Dragon in which the princess seems to be enjoying that serpent between her legs a bit too much. Canova’s Paris had a perfect ass…seriously.

The day was beautiful and I didn’t want to miss lunch al fresco, so around 1:30 I left and sought a quay-side restaurant in Fondamenta Zattere. On the way, I passed the Squero San Trovaso (boatyard) which is one of only two squeri left in Venice where gondolas can be mended and built.

At Alle Zattere Pizzeria I ordered the cicchetti and the canneloni. Both were excellent as my pigeon friend can attest. I broke the rules and fed the poor fellow. The view was wonderful and the sun was shining and I felt lucky to be alive.

I took my time getting lost on the way back and explored Dorsoduro. I passed lovely bars, florists, and countless stores selling beautiful handicrafts. Later on, that night as I pondered this house hunt I looked up the rent in Venice and discovered that you could find a decent place for 750€/month which is pretty awesome. Maybe we’ll just live in Venice for a year.

My friend gave me a great tip when we had dinner and suggested I go up to the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi shopping center’s rooftop terrace to enjoy the views. The rooftop terrace is free but must be reserved in advance. The views are unbelievable. Sadly, my phone was out of battery and I couldn’t snap pictures.

That evening I made reservations at Ristorante Pizzeria Antico Gatoleto, a trattoria/pizzeria with very good reviews. I sat next to a lovely mother and daughter pair and had a wonderful conversation during dinner. One of the things I love about Venice is how worldly it is. The average resident often speaks three or more languages. Amazing.

After dinner, a very cute waiter tried to take me home with him. He was very sad when I told him I was married. Italians are charming, I’ll give them that.

I took my time walking back to St. Mark’s feeling just a bit sad that I needed to head back to Orvieto the next day. Venice at night takes on a gothic and mysterious quality that I adore. I stayed out till midnight snapping pictures and enjoying the magic.

Here are some of my best nighttime shots, made me wish that I had a better lens than an iPhone, but I made it work.

The following day, I met K for breakfast, then made my way to the market. The Venetian farmer’s market is a wonder to behold. The sheer beauty and abundance of the products available are astounding. Cheeses, meats, fruits, herbs, fish, nuts, bread, pastries–it’s all for grabs here at awesome prices. I was seduced by the strawberries and tomatoes, both of which I bought. I also picked up a live basil plant which I managed to keep alive till the end of my trip. That little plant provided a lot of Caprese salads. So yes, I carried a bag of groceries from Venice all the way back to Orvieto. Those strawberries were worth it. I can get why Italians shop daily. The food is just so much tastier when it’s fresh.

God and Universe willing, it won’t be another 20 years before I return to Venice. I’m thinking maybe this fall?

I leave you with a quote by the infamous courtesan Veronica Franco.

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“We danced our youth in a dreamed of city, Venice, paradise, proud and pretty. We lived for love and lust and beauty, pleasure then our only duty. Floating them twixt heaven and Earth…”

Veronica Franco

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