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B&B Castello di Strambinello is Cozy and Quiet

Our next accomodation was in B&B Castello di Strambinello. This small holding is private and peaceful and the host is wonderful. We got to the hotel late in the evening and were greeted by Santino and his adorable dogs. Our apartments were large, comfortable, and very quiet. I would highly recommend a stay in this house–which was saved from collapse and lovingly restored. The breakfast is held in the cozy dining room and cooked to order by Santino. Conversation between the guests was lively and we were given the tip to visit Damanhur which is nearby.

A Halloween Visit to Verrès Castle & Fort Bard

Verres Castle

On a crisp autumn day, we drove to Verres Castle. The castle is perched atop a hill in the charming town of Verres, Italy. This medieval marvel, steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking scenery.

The climb to the castle was no easy feat, but with each step, anticipation grew, fueled by the desire to uncover the secrets held within these ancient walls.

Reaching the summit, we were greeted by the imposing façade straight out of a storybook. Dating back to the 14th century, this fortress has witnessed centuries of tumultuous history, from noble families to battles and conquests.

Stepping inside, we were transporteded back in time. The castle’s interior was a maze of corridors, chambers, and courtyards, each corner whispering tales of its storied past. From the great halls adorned with medieval artifacts to the intimate chapel displaying religious relics, every room exuded an air of mystery and grandeur.

What struck me most about Verres Castle was its authenticity. Unlike some tourist attractions that feel staged, this castle retained its raw, unfiltered character—a testament to its enduring legacy. The preservation efforts were evident, allowing visitors like myself to immerse fully in its medieval ambiance.

After exploring every nook and cranny, we descended from the castle and had an excellent lunch at a local trattoria.

If you find yourself in the Aosta Valley, don’t miss the chance to visit Verres Castle. It’s more than a tourist attraction; it’s a portal to another era, a gateway to a world of knights and kings, waiting to be explored.

Fort Bard

After Verres we drove to Fort Bard. We were surprised to find Halloween decorations in town.

On the approach to the castle, we were struck by its commanding presence. Perched atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the charming village of Bard, the castle’s rugged stone walls and imposing towers hinted at a storied past filled with legends and tales of noble families.

Nestled in the scenic Aosta Valley, Fort Bard commands attention from its rocky perch above the town of Bard—a testament to centuries of strategic importance. Built in the 19th century by the House of Savoy and meticulously restored, the fort now welcomes visitors as the captivating Museum of the Alps.

The history of Fort Bard is steeped in resilience and intrigue. Originally established by Theodoric I in the 5th century, the fortress evolved over time, culminating in the construction of the current complex by Charles Albert of Savoy between 1830 and 1838. This formidable stronghold replaced a 10th-century castle and played a key role in controlling the historic route between Italy and France.

Fort Bard’s most remarkable chapter unfolded in May 1800, during Napoleon Bonaparte’s campaign. Against all odds, 400 Austro-Piedmontese soldiers stationed at the fort held off a 40,000-strong French army for two weeks, thwarting Napoleon’s plans for a surprise attack on the Po Valley and Turin. Enraged by this setback, Napoleon famously dubbed the fort “vilain castel de Bard” and ordered its destruction—an order that was later reversed.

The fort’s reconstruction was entrusted to Italian military engineer Francesco Antonio Olivero, who crafted a formidable stronghold with two distinct levels.

Visiting Fort Bard is an immersive experience. The museum within the complex delves into the history of the Alps and hosts art exhibitions and cultural events, adding vibrancy to this window into history.

Fénis Castle–A Perfect Outing on a Rainy Day

Today we embarked on a captivating journey back in time at Fénis Castle, nestled in Aosta Valley. In the dreary fog and rain, the castle’s ancient stones seemed to resonate with history and mystique, beckoning us to step into a world of knights and noble feasts.

As we approached the castle, its silhouette emerged from the mist like something out of a fairy tale—a majestic manor house with towering turrets and double-crenellated walls, proudly standing on a gentle hill surrounded by verdant meadows. Unlike other castles built for defense, Fénis Castle was once the opulent residence of the illustrious Challant family, where administrative prowess merged with noble luxury.

Stepping inside, we were immediately struck by the grandeur of the interiors. Giant fireplaces and vast cooking hearths dominated the kitchen area, hinting at the sumptuous banquets and lavish feasts that once graced these halls. The castle’s architecture was a testament to medieval ingenuity, with its pentagonal layout and circular turrets, showcasing the artistic vision of Aimone di Challant in the 14th century.

The highlight of our visit was the breathtaking courtyard—a true masterpiece of medieval artistry. Adorned with frescoes depicting saints and sages, the courtyard whispered stories of bygone eras, where power and refinement intertwined seamlessly.

An entire cow could be roasted on the left side where the flagstones are. The hood is among the largest in Europe at nearly 18 meters high. This fireplace was used to heat the entire castle as well as to smoke meat for preservation. There is also a door inside it. Fenis castle dates to 1242.

After our enchanting tour of the castle, we had a lovely lunch of traditional dishes at Le Bourg Trattoria.

Castello Reale di Sarre–A Castle Reminiscent of Beauty & The Beast,

Built in 1710 on the ruins of a fortress mentioned as early as 1242, having passed through various hands, the property was purchased by the King of Italy Victor Emanuel II, who renovated it and used it during hunting expeditions in Val d’Aosta.

The royal castle of Sarre, after becoming the private property of the Savoys, was used as their headquarters for expeditions in the valleys of Cogne, Rhêmes and Valsavarenche. As you can see, he hunted chamois, ibex and other game almost to extinction.

This place is reminiscent of a twisted fairytale. I had thoughts of Beauty stepping through the grand doorway into a ballroom filled with thousands upon thousands of animal skulls. It’s all quite demented and over the top.

Personally, I wasn’t into the thousands of dead animal skulls and horns…but I can’t say it wasn’t unique.

Skyway Monte Bianco

No trip to Courmayeur would be complete without an ascent to Monte Bianco. Luckily, we had near perfect visibility.

Skyway Monte Bianco is a cable car in the Italian Alps that links the town of Courmayeur with Pointe Helbronner on the southern side of Mont Blanc massif. Taking over three years to construct, it opened in 2015 at a cost of 110 million euros, and is considered to be the world’s most expensive cable car installation.

The Monte Bianco Skyway is a one of a kind way to experience the tallest peak in Italy. Must do when in the area.

Exploring Aosta & Piemonte

This year we had planned an extensive journey through Egypt to see the ancient sights along the Nile. When fighting broke out in Gaza, we decided to cancel the trip on the advice of friends who live in Cairo.

That gave us less than two weeks to pivot if we wanted a vacation. My first instinct was Italy, but we wanted to see a region we hadn’t experienced before. Enter Piedmonte in the North. Fall weather, food festivals, and a sleepy slow food and wine tour seemed ideal.

Well, here we are in our first stop—a luxurious mountain chalet at the foot of Monte Bianco. This was a long drive from Milan, but so worth it. Just look at the pyramids nature has created! We arrived on a picture perfect day and we’re treated to one of the best views of our lives. I kind of don’t want to leave the hotel!

We are staying at Auberge de la Maison, some 300 meters away from Skyway Monte Bianco.

The view from our room is nothing short of stunning! And the staff here is wonderful.

This Renovated Medieval Tower With A Spectacular Terrace 40Minutes from Rome Can Be Yours For Under $110K

The home I am featuring today is located close to Rome in Palombara Sabina. Palombara has a population of 8,000 and is situated on a hill overlooking the Tiber Valley.

The town has a long and rich history, dating back to ancient Roman times. The name Palombara comes from the Latin “paulembra,” meaning “hazel grove,” due to the abundance of hazel trees in the area.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9KcaAQpRnI/ Photo by @brent__freeman on Instagram

During the Middle Ages, Palombara was an essential center for agriculture and trade. Perched at the foot of Monte Gennaro, the village has a spiral urban plan design that starts in a piazza and winds its way upward, culminating at its stunning 11th-century castle with original frescos by Baldassarre Petruzzi, terra-cotta flooring, and stunning views over the Tiber River Valley. The castle was built around the year 1000 by the Crescenzi Ottaviani family. The Castle was restored in 2008, and it is now possible to visit the Naturalistic Museum and an exhibition of Roman marble sculptures found in 1986 in Formelluccio.

It is precisely next to this castle in the historical center where our completely renovated single-family stone home stands. It is a tower house complete with machicolations and probably served as the gatehouse or barracks in Medieval times. The property is spread over three living levels connected by an elegant wooden staircase and a sizeable terrace with a breathtaking view! On the ground floor, a sitting room is divided by a beautiful sliding door and a regal fireplace hand carved from peperino stone. On the first floor is a living room with a dining area, bathroom, kitchenette, and balcony. On the second floor lies a large double bedroom with a balcony. On the rooftop, you will be rewarded with stunning views over the valley from your expansive terrace. The finishes in this home are quite good, and having two bathrooms is very handy in a multi-story home. Perhaps the purchaser could turn that second floor into another bedroom and transform the downstairs with that impressive fireplace into a kitchen/living area. I love the floors of this home and the little rustic touches. At 108 m² (1162.5 sq ft), this home is large and ideal as both a primary residence and a second home/tourist let. Parking is conveniently located across the street.

Palombara Sabina is served by mega-fast Fiber Optic internet so working from home won’t be an issue.

Just imagine lazy evenings spent having drinks on that terrace and watching the sunset. This is slow living at its finest!

At €107,000, this home is a real unicorn. If you make this your prima casa, you won’t pay any property taxes either.

Are you sold yet?

CONTACT THE AGENT TODAY!

In recent times, Palombara has become known for its olive oil and wine, both of which are highly prized for their quality and flavor. The town has a CONAD, a Eurospin, and several other smaller markets. There are no less than four spectacular bakeries, dozens of restaurants and pizzerias, bars, cafes, and a vibrant social scene.

Sagra Delle Cerase (Cherry Festival) takes place in June and celebrates the said fruit. The town takes on a carnival-like atmosphere during this celebration and displays intricate floats in fantastic subjects. Dragons, angels, gingerbread houses, wizards, you name it.

Following the cherry festival, you can booze it up in July at the Festa Della Birra, an Oktoberfest-like party featuring artisanal and local brews that lasts for ten days!

Did I mention these people love to eat and drink?

https://primamonza.it/cronaca/a-carate-brianza-la-prima-festa-della-birra/

In September, the fun continues with the Sagra del Ciammelloco celebrating the traditional sweets made with eggs, flour, anise, lemon, and olive oil.

In addition to appreciating the delicious taste that the aniseed seeds lend to these typical desserts, the grated and squeezed lemons and the anisette liqueur preserved this treat. In the past, the peasants and shepherds took it to the countryside because it remained tasty and fragrant for days and constituted the well-deserved “reward” at the end of a frugal workday lunch.

In November, townsfolk celebrate the green gold of Lazio at the Grande Festa dell’Olio Della Sabina (The Great Feast of the Olive Oil of Sabina). At this party, the freshly pressed oil is the star.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Ckh7U84MS-4/ Photo @donatella_luce63 on Instagram

In addition to its historical and cultural attractions, Palombara is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The town is surrounded by beautiful countryside, with rolling hills and forests, making it an excellent place for hiking, biking, and other outdoor activities.

https://youtu.be/apBANEO4dyk

Overall, Palombara Sabina is a charming and picturesque town with a rich history and a beautiful natural setting. It is a fantastic home base for those interested in history, culture, and the great outdoors.


I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about Palombara Sabina. Subscribe to the blog today, and don’t miss the opportunity to learn a little about Italy.

Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this lovely home.

A Spacious Restored Medieval Home in a Glorious Town in Lazio For Less Than $65K? Yes, please.

Today, I bring you a stunning single-family stone house in the historic center of Vignanello, a charming town I’ve personally visited during my travels throughout Italy. Surrounded by cultivated fields, woods, and streams, this palce is like an open-air museum.

Vignanello is a small town located in the province of Viterbo, in the region of Lazio, in central Italy. The town has a population of around 4,500 and is situated on a hilltop overlooking the Tiber Valley. The town has an extensive history dating back to the Etruscan and Roman times, and it has retained much of its medieval charm, with narrow streets and picturesque buildings.

Vignanello’s historic center is built on a large tufa (tophus) plateau. Under the city, there is a dense maze of corridors and caves protected on three sides by deep valleys and, on the fourth side, by the fairy tale castle Castello Ruspoli. The medieval fortress was built in the 16th century and is beautifully preserved. A museum showcases the town’s history and hosts ongoing exhibits inside the castle. The castle’s Renaissance garden, complete with a hedge maze, took shape in 1610 under the direction of Ottavia Orsini, the wife of Marcantonio Marescotti, and daughter of Vicino Orsini, the creator of the extraordinary Bomarzo garden. Needless to say, the garden is a top tourist attraction and an Instagram favorite.

Vignanello is Known for Great Wine, Food, And Olive Oil

According to the local tradition, wine (vigna) was grown in the middle of the village square resulting in the town’s name. Vignanello is home to highly-rated wineries and is known for producing wine, particularly white wine, which is exported worldwide. Vignanello DOC is a relatively small zone in the northwestern part of Lazio, comprising the municipalities Vignanello, Vasanello, Bassano in Teverina, Corchiano, and parts of Soriano del Cimino, Fabrica di Roma and Gallese, all located in the Viterbo province. The area is located in the low Cimini hills, just east of Lago di Vico, one of the several volcanic lakes in this part of Lazio. There is historical evidence of viticulture in these parts since prehistoric times. For archaeology buffs, there are exciting excavations of Etruscan towns in Molesino, one of Vignanello’s neighboring towns, as well as a burial ground from the same period, located in the nearby valley with a less inviting name, Valle Della Cupa, meaning “the gloomy valley.”

In addition to wine, Vignanello is also known for its olive oil, which is produced in the region. The olive trees in the area are grown using traditional methods, and the olive oil produced is known for its high quality and unique flavor.

The town commemorates their excellent olive oil and wine in the Festa dell’Olio e del Vino Novello in March. This festival has Medieval pageantry, amazing eats, archery contests, and more.

Traditional dishes are similar to those found in Rome and include: Pasta all’amatriciana, a dish made with spaghetti, tomato sauce, bacon, and pecorino cheese. Pasta Carbonara made with spaghetti, eggs, bacon, and pecorino cheese. Coda alla vaccinara, a hearty slow-cooked dish of oxtail, vegetables, and white wine in a rich and flavorful sauce. And Supplì, fried rice balls filled with mozzarella cheese and meat or vegetables.

Vignanello Transportation Links

The main form of transportation in Vignanello is by car. The town is located along the SR2 Cassia, a major road that connects Rome to the north of Italy and is easily accessible by car. There is also a network of local roads that connect Vignanello to the surrounding towns and villages.

There is a train station in the town, which is served by regional trains that connect Vignanello to Rome and other nearby towns. The journey from Vignanello to Rome takes about one hour by train.

The closest airport is Rome Fiumicino Airport, located about 70 kilometers south of the town. Visitors can reach the airport by train.

A Gorgeous Home in Vignanello for €59,000!

I came across this home in my own house search and loved the value and interior aesthetics. First, it’s spacious (140m/1506.95 sq ft). Second, it’s independent. Looking at the pictures, I could tell this was a dwelling made with love. It’s so cozy; I just had to share it. Just look at those strong exposed beams, the original windows, and the beautiful wood floors! There are plenty of bedrooms for the entire family and bathrooms as well. The skylights add plenty of light and the two kitchens mean it could be split into two dwelling units or a tourist let.

Adjacent to the main square of Vignanello with the Ruspoli Castle and the Cathedral, this is a renovated independent building in a bright and quiet position. Access to the first floor is via a staircase, where we find a beautiful hallway with a bathroom. Two steps lead us to the living room with a fireplace, a mezzanine accessible by a wooden staircase, a kitchenette, and a beautiful bedroom.

A staircase of a few steps takes us to a large room used as a living room with a kitchenette; from here, we arrive at the third floor, where we find a bright bedroom with a bathroom.

For lovers of the historic center and tranquility, it is the ideal solution (the alley communicates with the main square and the other square where all the other services are located.

Close to shops, that beautiful castle garden, the train station, and parking, this is a fantastic and incredibly affordable solution! €59K barely buys you a car in the US! The town has a high-speed fiber optic network, making this an ideal place if you work remotely.

CONTACT THE LISTING AGENT TODAY!


I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about Vignanello. If you want more amazing dream real estate tips, subscribe to the blog today!

Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this lovely home.

A True Italian Fairytale! An Apartment in an 11th-Century Castle Near Rome For Less Than $100K

Cineto Romano, formerly Scarpa until March 28th, 1884, is a small town in the province of Rome located in the valley of the Ferrata torrent.
The inhabited center rises on the foothills of the Lucretili Mountains in the Aniene Valley. The hilly municipal area is crossed by various small-scale and highly seasonal watercourses, including the Fosso della Scarpa and the Rioscuro, famous for its waterfalls, whose waters flow into the Ferrata torrent, in the underground part, a tributary of the Aniene.

The charming town of Cineto Romano offers a wealth of sights, activities, and culinary experiences for visitors to enjoy.

One of the major sights in Cineto Romano is the baronial Castle, which dates back to the 11th century and was once a fief of the Orsini and Borghese families. The castle, which has been beautifully preserved, offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and is a popular spot for visitors to take in the sights and learn about the town’s history.

The Castle Apartment

It is precisely inside this castle where you’ll find this lovely and affordable 100m (1,079 sq ft) apartment with sweeping views over the valley and the mountains beyond.

The apartment is all on one floor and comprises a large entrance hall, a living room, an eat-in kitchen, three bedrooms, a bathroom, and a closet. The flat is luminous, with very tall ceilings and unique architectural features such as a fireplace. This home can become your fairytale palace with some TLC and vintage furnishings. The price is 70K–a fantastic value. The views out of those windows are simply divine!

Can you picture living in this historic castle?

I sure can.

Just look at that beautiful entrance! Wow.

This low-maintenance apartment is perfect as a main residence or a second home. The ultra-broadband network also covers the city, which delivers GIGA FIBER to every home. So yes, you can work remotely from your castle residence and never miss a beat.

This place is in the center of town and within walking distance of all the amenities. Cineto Romano is a village of about 600 people, yet it boasts several highly-rated restaurants, bars, and pizzerias, such as Il Oliveto, where you can dine by a cozy fire and feast on an assortment of local dishes. Housed in a noble villa, this agriturismo serves authentic fare made with foraged wild mushrooms and white truffles. Homemade pasta, locally cured meats, cheeses, and specialties such as “Sagne” al farro are pappardelle with spelt flour seasoned with oil, garlic, tomato, and chili pepper, will make your heart sing. Did I mention it’s also a frantoio where you can taste freshly pressed olive oil?

Stone fireplace at Pensione Il Oliveto’s Dining Room

Cineto Romano also has a post office, a pharmacy, and a bakery. The closest train station is 10 minutes away by car or bus. The train to Rome takes approximately an hour and a half.

The village is also home to the patronal feast of San Giovanni Battista in August.

This tiny town exudes peace and tranquility and loads of Italian charm. But if you ever find yourself craving the big city, Rome is less than an hour away, making trips to other European capitals cheap and easy.

The town also has a large, free parking lot, making it very convenient for those traveling by car.

If hiking/trekking is your passion, the waterfalls of the Rioscuro stream are breathtaking. Fairy pools, refreshing forest streams, shady glens, and ferny hiking trails await.

Did I not mention this was a fairytale of an opportunity?

What are you waiting for?

Contact the listing agent today.

History of the Orsini Castle in Cineto Romano

This home comes with a lot of history. Imposing and superb, the baronial palace of Scarpa towers over the valley from the high cliff. Visitors to the castle ascend via a wide staircase that leads to the ancient guard post turret upon which hangs the civic bell. In the 15th century, the bell was replaced, and the enormous communal clock was installed. Both can still be admired today.

Passing through a small square, where an old fountain gushes artisanal water, stands the grand rustic door that leads to the internal courtyard. A stone seal atop the old portal reads 1556: “Ostium no. Hostium,” which translates, “Not the gate of enemies.” Perhaps this is the original “Speak Friend and Enter!”

Photo by @enzo_secko on Instagram

The visitor who wanders within these austere walls is driven almost unconsciously to reconstruct the past. Constructed in the 11th century, the fortress served many purposes and became a bargaining chip between powerful Italian dynasties.

In the 13th century, Matteo the Lord of Scarpa (Cineto Romano’s original name) granted the castle to Cardinal Napoleone Orsini in exchange for part of the Castello del Lago, and the Castle of Cantalupo (now Mandela).

In 1339 Giordano di Orso Orsini of Monterotondo granted the castle of Scarpa to his brother Rinaldo, who ceded it to Orso di Giacomo di Napoleone Orsini di Tagliacozzo. On 3 August 1368, Bertoldo Orsini di Scarpa divided the fortress with his brother Roberto, Lord of License. In 1380 and 1381, the Tiburtine troops sacked the fortress in a war against Rinaldo Orsini. The Lordship of Scarpa remained attributed to Matteo, his son Oddone and Angelo di Oddone until 1390.

Subsequently, with the marriage of 1418 between Maria Masi di Matteuccio and Orsello di Orso Degli Orsini, the barony passed to the latter.

When in 1503, Pope Alexander VI sent his troops against Giordano Orsini on the Via Valeria, the castle of Scarpa was temporarily lost, when the Orsinis surrendered but was recovered once more after the Pope’s death, which occurred the same year. In December 1526, Ascanio Colonna, Duke of Tagliacozzo, son of Fabrizio and brother of Sciarra, having received reinforcements from the viceroy of Naples, came towards Tivoli with 2,000 infantry and 300 riders and tried in vain to take Scarpa.

In his “History of Italy,” Francesco Guicciardini (1483-1550) reports, “Ascanio Colonna fought in vain at Scarpa, the castle of the abbey of Farfa.”

In 1592, Oddo and Orazio Colonna, the princes of Roviano, were imprisoned in the castle. The deeds of October 6th, 1611, and April 13th, 1612, state that the castle passed into the ownership of the Borghese family, who remained feudal lords until the suppression of feudalism in 1816.

In 1925, these last owners sold it to Curzio Gramiccia, who restored it with the help of the renowned engineers Lazzari and Gaspari.

On February 7th, 1927, the medieval manor hosted religious, military, and civil authorities within its walls on the solemn commemoration of Cardinal Filippo Giustini.

In May 1934, the Oblate Fathers of Mary Immaculate bought the castle at the tax collection auction for the sum of 25K Lire, and the latter then resold it and transformed it into various lodgings or apartments.

One of which can now be yours for 70,000 .


I hope you’ve enjoyed learning a bit about this gorgeous town. If you want more amazing dream real estate tips, subscribe to the blog today!

Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this lovely home.

Lunch in Pitigliano

So it’s been ages since I wrote about my Italian adventures earlier this year. After Venice, my days became pretty hectic and I didn’t have time to write. I thought I’d return to the blog sooner, but life has kept me pretty busy. I’m now back in the US and thinking about my journey so I’m picking up where I left off. If you’re still reading, thanks!

After departing Orvieto on March 27th, 2022, I drove to Maremma so I could spend a few blissful days decompressing in Saturnia. The weather would have other plans, but alas, I digress. On the way to Saturnia, I stopped in medieval Pitigliano. I had bought a delicious porchetta sandwich from a salumeria in Orvieto, and I thought I’d work off the calories on the streets of this Tuscan gem.

A Little About Pitigliano

Carved from volcanic stone, the town of Pitigliano is located near the thermal mineral waters of Bagno San Filipo. In 2021, I read a gothic romance written by Ouida (Maria Louise Ramé) titled In Maremma which sparked my curiosity about this portion of Tuscany. If you are looking for a gothic novel set in Italy, this book is a must. Musa, the star-crossed and defiant heroine, is a character you won’t soon forget.

If you are interested in learning a little more about Ouida (who moved to Italy from England), I recommend reading The Epitome And Portrait Of Modern Society: Ouida As Social Barometer Of The Victorian Era by Lorraine Michelle Dubuisson from the University of Mississippi. After reading several of her books, she’s become one of my favorite 19th Century authors.

Until the 19th century, the southern Tuscan area known as the Maremma was an inhospitable wasteland. Notoriously marshy, the area was plagued by black clouds of mosquitos infected with malaria and overrun by bandits. The Maremma was seen as a backwater and snubbed by Italians who preferred the milder and more tamed areas of northern and western Tuscany. In the 20th century, efforts to drain the marshes and cures for malaria turned this forgotten land into a desirable destination. Astonishingly fertile, the Maremma now yields a wealth of produce. Whereas Tuscany’s north is a magnet for tourists interested in cultural treasures, the Maremma’s hearty, wholesome food and wine attract gourmands from around the globe.

The countryside in the Maremma is truly stunning and unless you’re dipping into Saturnia at night, you’ll survive the mosquitos (more on this later).

Pitigliano is carved into the volcanic rock (tufo) and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Known as Little Jerusalem due to the large Jewish community that thrived within its walls in the 16th century, this Tuscan jewel lies at the crossroads of the Lente, Meleta, and Prochio valleys. Legend suggests that the ancient town was founded by a pair of thieves, Petilio and Celiano, who fled Rome after stealing Jupiter’s golden crown. The duo took refuge in the countryside caves beneath Pitigliano (I did say the Maremma was notorious for bandits), founding a community named Petiliano. The origins of the town date back to the Neolithic Age and later the Etruscans. The Etruscans favored plateaus, caves, and highly defensible areas (just look at Civita di Bagnoreggio & Orvieto) and hand-excavated their homes from the volcanic rock.

My first glimpse of this village from the parking lot was breathtaking.

When in Pitigliano, prepare to make very sharp turns as you scale toward the top. Whatever you do, don’t drive thorugh the main gate or you will face some serious penalties. Park outside of town in designated parking lots and walk.

Once inside the town, you will be treated to a feast of ancient architechture and winding alleyways bedecked with flowers. Unlike Spello, which is a bit too “Disney” for me, Pitigliano feels very much lived in. This is a working city that hasn’t yet been overrun by tourism. The views over the valley from its piazzas are stunning.

Pitigliano Real Estate

If you like cave homes and close quarter living within ancient walls, you’ll fall in love with this small town. If you like tall regal ceilings, vast palazzos, gardens, and parking spaces, you should look elsewhere. Pitigliano is a warren of tight alleyways and tiny dwellings. A bit of speluncaphobia is necessary to live like a proper Etruscan.

You can buy a home in the centro for under 200K like this cave home (198K). I actually walked to the front door of this one while I was there and it’s on a really cute street close to everything. Perhaps by the time you read this, it will be sold…but it’s still a good example of what your money can buy. Since I was in Italy, the Euro has fallen dramatically against the dollar so it’s never been a better time to buy. As I write this, 1 EUR is worth 0.99 USD.

Here is a restored pied-a-terre with a little terrace for 158K. This one is smaller but more light-filled.

I’m a gardening and nature fanatic and towns like Pitigliano just feel too claustrophobic for me. I live in the middle of the woods right now, so this would require some serious thought. I’m not sure I’m ready to be surrouned by endless stone. Trees are very important to me. As a vacation place, the lack of a major airport within striking distance puts Southern Tuscany at a disadvantage. I would want to be able to get to a Freccia Rossa train station and international airport within an hour.

Orsini Palace, Pitigliano

There are a few sights in Pitigliano you shouldn’ t miss. One of those is the Orsini Palace. Founded in the 15th Century, the palace was enlarged by Count Niccolo II Orsini and modified in the 1500’s by Niccolo IV. Twenty one rooms are open to the public where you will glimpse restored frescoes, original furniture, jewelry, and objects of art. This gorgeous place is well worth the € 5.00 entry fee.

Finally, My Sandwich With A View

I unwrapped my pork sandwich which was warm from sitting in the car, and just wow. Between my hunger, the amazing flavor of the slow braised pork, and the view, I was in heaven. In Italy, the simplest food tastes divine.

I promise I’ll write more soon!

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