The home I am featuring today is located close to Rome in Palombara Sabina. Palombara has a population of 8,000 and is situated on a hill overlooking the Tiber Valley.
The town has a long and rich history, dating back to ancient Roman times. The name Palombara comes from the Latin “paulembra,” meaning “hazel grove,” due to the abundance of hazel trees in the area.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B9KcaAQpRnI/ Photo by @brent__freeman on Instagram
During the Middle Ages, Palombara was an essential center for agriculture and trade. Perched at the foot of Monte Gennaro, the village has a spiral urban plan design that starts in a piazza and winds its way upward, culminating at its stunning 11th-century castle with original frescos by Baldassarre Petruzzi, terra-cotta flooring, and stunning views over the Tiber River Valley. The castle was built around the year 1000 by the Crescenzi Ottaviani family. The Castle was restored in 2008, and it is now possible to visit the Naturalistic Museum and an exhibition of Roman marble sculptures found in 1986 in Formelluccio.
It is precisely next to this castle in the historical center where our completely renovated single-family stone home stands. It is a tower house complete with machicolations and probably served as the gatehouse or barracks in Medieval times. The property is spread over three living levels connected by an elegant wooden staircase and a sizeable terrace with a breathtaking view! On the ground floor, a sitting room is divided by a beautiful sliding door and a regal fireplace hand carved from peperino stone. On the first floor is a living room with a dining area, bathroom, kitchenette, and balcony. On the second floor lies a large double bedroom with a balcony. On the rooftop, you will be rewarded with stunning views over the valley from your expansive terrace. The finishes in this home are quite good, and having two bathrooms is very handy in a multi-story home. Perhaps the purchaser could turn that second floor into another bedroom and transform the downstairs with that impressive fireplace into a kitchen/living area. I love the floors of this home and the little rustic touches. At 108 m² (1162.5 sq ft), this home is large and ideal as both a primary residence and a second home/tourist let. Parking is conveniently located across the street.
Palombara Sabina is served by mega-fast Fiber Optic internet so working from home won’t be an issue.
Just imagine lazy evenings spent having drinks on that terrace and watching the sunset. This is slow living at its finest!
At €107,000, this home is a real unicorn. If you make this your prima casa, you won’t pay any property taxes either.
In recent times, Palombara has become known for its olive oil and wine, both of which are highly prized for their quality and flavor. The town has a CONAD, a Eurospin, and several other smaller markets. There are no less than four spectacular bakeries, dozens of restaurants and pizzerias, bars, cafes, and a vibrant social scene.
Sagra Delle Cerase (Cherry Festival) takes place in June and celebrates the said fruit. The town takes on a carnival-like atmosphere during this celebration and displays intricate floats in fantastic subjects. Dragons, angels, gingerbread houses, wizards, you name it.
Following the cherry festival, you can booze it up in July at the Festa Della Birra, an Oktoberfest-like party featuring artisanal and local brews that lasts for ten days!
In September, the fun continues with the Sagra del Ciammelloco celebrating the traditional sweets made with eggs, flour, anise, lemon, and olive oil.
In addition to appreciating the delicious taste that the aniseed seeds lend to these typical desserts, the grated and squeezed lemons and the anisette liqueur preserved this treat. In the past, the peasants and shepherds took it to the countryside because it remained tasty and fragrant for days and constituted the well-deserved “reward” at the end of a frugal workday lunch.
In November, townsfolk celebrate the green gold of Lazio at the Grande Festa dell’Olio Della Sabina (The Great Feast of the Olive Oil of Sabina). At this party, the freshly pressed oil is the star.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ckh7U84MS-4/ Photo @donatella_luce63 on Instagram
In addition to its historical and cultural attractions, Palombara is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The town is surrounded by beautiful countryside, with rolling hills and forests, making it an excellent place for hiking, biking, and other outdoor activities.
https://youtu.be/apBANEO4dyk
Overall, Palombara Sabina is a charming and picturesque town with a rich history and a beautiful natural setting. It is a fantastic home base for those interested in history, culture, and the great outdoors.
I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about Palombara Sabina. Subscribe to the blog today, and don’t miss the opportunity to learn a little about Italy.
Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this lovely home.
Today, I bring you a stunning single-family stone house in the historic center of Vignanello, a charming town I’ve personally visited during my travels throughout Italy. Surrounded by cultivated fields, woods, and streams, this palce is like an open-air museum.
Vignanello is a small town located in the province of Viterbo, in the region of Lazio, in central Italy. The town has a population of around 4,500 and is situated on a hilltop overlooking the Tiber Valley. The town has an extensive history dating back to the Etruscan and Roman times, and it has retained much of its medieval charm, with narrow streets and picturesque buildings.
Vignanello’s historic center is built on a large tufa (tophus) plateau. Under the city, there is a dense maze of corridors and caves protected on three sides by deep valleys and, on the fourth side, by the fairy tale castle Castello Ruspoli. The medieval fortress was built in the 16th century and is beautifully preserved. A museum showcases the town’s history and hosts ongoing exhibits inside the castle. The castle’s Renaissance garden, complete with a hedge maze, took shape in 1610 under the direction of Ottavia Orsini, the wife of Marcantonio Marescotti, and daughter of Vicino Orsini, the creator of the extraordinary Bomarzo garden. Needless to say, the garden is a top tourist attraction and an Instagram favorite.
Vignanello is Known for Great Wine, Food, And Olive Oil
According to the local tradition, wine (vigna) was grown in the middle of the village square resulting in the town’s name. Vignanello is home to highly-rated wineries and is known for producing wine, particularly white wine, which is exported worldwide. Vignanello DOC is a relatively small zone in the northwestern part of Lazio, comprising the municipalities Vignanello, Vasanello, Bassano in Teverina, Corchiano, and parts of Soriano del Cimino, Fabrica di Roma and Gallese, all located in the Viterbo province. The area is located in the low Cimini hills, just east of Lago di Vico, one of the several volcanic lakes in this part of Lazio. There is historical evidence of viticulture in these parts since prehistoric times. For archaeology buffs, there are exciting excavations of Etruscan towns in Molesino, one of Vignanello’s neighboring towns, as well as a burial ground from the same period, located in the nearby valley with a less inviting name, Valle Della Cupa, meaning “the gloomy valley.”
In addition to wine, Vignanello is also known for its olive oil, which is produced in the region. The olive trees in the area are grown using traditional methods, and the olive oil produced is known for its high quality and unique flavor.
The town commemorates their excellent olive oil and wine in the Festa dell’Olio e del Vino Novello in March. This festival has Medieval pageantry, amazing eats, archery contests, and more.
Traditional dishes are similar to those found in Rome and include: Pasta all’amatriciana, a dish made with spaghetti, tomato sauce, bacon, and pecorino cheese. Pasta Carbonara made with spaghetti, eggs, bacon, and pecorino cheese. Coda alla vaccinara, a hearty slow-cooked dish of oxtail, vegetables, and white wine in a rich and flavorful sauce. And Supplì, fried rice balls filled with mozzarella cheese and meat or vegetables.
Vignanello Transportation Links
The main form of transportation in Vignanello is by car. The town is located along the SR2 Cassia, a major road that connects Rome to the north of Italy and is easily accessible by car. There is also a network of local roads that connect Vignanello to the surrounding towns and villages.
There is a train station in the town, which is served by regional trains that connect Vignanello to Rome and other nearby towns. The journey from Vignanello to Rome takes about one hour by train.
The closest airport is Rome Fiumicino Airport, located about 70 kilometers south of the town. Visitors can reach the airport by train.
A Gorgeous Home in Vignanello for €59,000!
I came across this home in my own house search and loved the value and interior aesthetics. First, it’s spacious (140m/1506.95 sq ft). Second, it’s independent. Looking at the pictures, I could tell this was a dwelling made with love. It’s so cozy; I just had to share it. Just look at those strong exposed beams, the original windows, and the beautiful wood floors! There are plenty of bedrooms for the entire family and bathrooms as well. The skylights add plenty of light and the two kitchens mean it could be split into two dwelling units or a tourist let.
Adjacent to the main square of Vignanello with the Ruspoli Castle and the Cathedral, this is a renovated independent building in a bright and quiet position. Access to the first floor is via a staircase, where we find a beautiful hallway with a bathroom. Two steps lead us to the living room with a fireplace, a mezzanine accessible by a wooden staircase, a kitchenette, and a beautiful bedroom.
A staircase of a few steps takes us to a large room used as a living room with a kitchenette; from here, we arrive at the third floor, where we find a bright bedroom with a bathroom.
For lovers of the historic center and tranquility, it is the ideal solution (the alley communicates with the main square and the other square where all the other services are located.
Close to shops, that beautiful castle garden, the train station, and parking, this is a fantastic and incredibly affordable solution! €59K barely buys you a car in the US! The town has a high-speed fiber optic network, making this an ideal place if you work remotely.
Cineto Romano, formerly Scarpa until March 28th, 1884, is a small town in the province of Rome located in the valley of the Ferrata torrent. The inhabited center rises on the foothills of the Lucretili Mountains in the Aniene Valley. The hilly municipal area is crossed by various small-scale and highly seasonal watercourses, including the Fosso della Scarpa and the Rioscuro, famous for its waterfalls, whose waters flow into the Ferrata torrent, in the underground part, a tributary of the Aniene.
The charming town of Cineto Romano offers a wealth of sights, activities, and culinary experiences for visitors to enjoy.
One of the major sights in Cineto Romano is the baronial Castle, which dates back to the 11th century and was once a fief of the Orsini and Borghese families. The castle, which has been beautifully preserved, offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and is a popular spot for visitors to take in the sights and learn about the town’s history.
The Castle Apartment
It is precisely inside this castle where you’ll find this lovely and affordable 100m (1,079 sq ft) apartment with sweeping views over the valley and the mountains beyond.
The apartment is all on one floor and comprises a large entrance hall, a living room, an eat-in kitchen, three bedrooms, a bathroom, and a closet. The flat is luminous, with very tall ceilings and unique architectural features such as a fireplace. This home can become your fairytale palace with some TLC and vintage furnishings. The price is €70K–a fantastic value. The views out of those windows are simply divine!
Can you picture living in this historic castle?
I sure can.
Just look at that beautiful entrance! Wow.
This low-maintenance apartment is perfect as a main residence or a second home. The ultra-broadband network also covers the city, which delivers GIGA FIBER to every home. So yes, you can work remotely from your castle residence and never miss a beat.
This place is in the center of town and within walking distance of all the amenities. Cineto Romano is a village of about 600 people, yet it boasts several highly-rated restaurants, bars, and pizzerias, such as Il Oliveto, where you can dine by a cozy fire and feast on an assortment of local dishes. Housed in a noble villa, this agriturismo serves authentic fare made with foraged wild mushrooms and white truffles. Homemade pasta, locally cured meats, cheeses, and specialties such as “Sagne” al farro are pappardelle with spelt flour seasoned with oil, garlic, tomato, and chili pepper, will make your heart sing. Did I mention it’s also a frantoio where you can taste freshly pressed olive oil?
Stone fireplace at Pensione Il Oliveto’s Dining Room
Cineto Romano also has a post office, a pharmacy, and a bakery. The closest train station is 10 minutes away by car or bus. The train to Rome takes approximately an hour and a half.
The village is also home to the patronal feast of San Giovanni Battista in August.
This tiny town exudes peace and tranquility and loads of Italian charm. But if you ever find yourself craving the big city, Rome is less than an hour away, making trips to other European capitals cheap and easy.
The town also has a large, free parking lot, making it very convenient for those traveling by car.
If hiking/trekking is your passion, the waterfalls of the Rioscuro stream are breathtaking. Fairy pools, refreshing forest streams, shady glens, and ferny hiking trails await.
Did I not mention this was a fairytale of an opportunity?
This home comes with a lot of history. Imposing and superb, the baronial palace of Scarpa towers over the valley from the high cliff. Visitors to the castle ascend via a wide staircase that leads to the ancient guard post turret upon which hangs the civic bell. In the 15th century, the bell was replaced, and the enormous communal clock was installed. Both can still be admired today.
Passing through a small square, where an old fountain gushes artisanal water, stands the grand rustic door that leads to the internal courtyard. A stone seal atop the old portal reads 1556: “Ostium no. Hostium,” which translates, “Not the gate of enemies.” Perhaps this is the original “Speak Friend and Enter!”
The visitor who wanders within these austere walls is driven almost unconsciously to reconstruct the past. Constructed in the 11th century, the fortress served many purposes and became a bargaining chip between powerful Italian dynasties.
In the 13th century, Matteo the Lord of Scarpa (Cineto Romano’s original name) granted the castle to Cardinal Napoleone Orsini in exchange for part of the Castello del Lago, and the Castle of Cantalupo (now Mandela).
In 1339 Giordano di Orso Orsini of Monterotondo granted the castle of Scarpa to his brother Rinaldo, who ceded it to Orso di Giacomo di Napoleone Orsini di Tagliacozzo. On 3 August 1368, Bertoldo Orsini di Scarpa divided the fortress with his brother Roberto, Lord of License. In 1380 and 1381, the Tiburtine troops sacked the fortress in a war against Rinaldo Orsini. The Lordship of Scarpa remained attributed to Matteo, his son Oddone and Angelo di Oddone until 1390.
Subsequently, with the marriage of 1418 between Maria Masi di Matteuccio and Orsello di Orso Degli Orsini, the barony passed to the latter.
When in 1503, Pope Alexander VI sent his troops against Giordano Orsini on the Via Valeria, the castle of Scarpa was temporarily lost, when the Orsinis surrendered but was recovered once more after the Pope’s death, which occurred the same year. In December 1526, Ascanio Colonna, Duke of Tagliacozzo, son of Fabrizio and brother of Sciarra, having received reinforcements from the viceroy of Naples, came towards Tivoli with 2,000 infantry and 300 riders and tried in vain to take Scarpa.
In his “History of Italy,” Francesco Guicciardini (1483-1550) reports, “Ascanio Colonna fought in vain at Scarpa, the castle of the abbey of Farfa.”
In 1592, Oddo and Orazio Colonna, the princes of Roviano, were imprisoned in the castle. The deeds of October 6th, 1611, and April 13th, 1612, state that the castle passed into the ownership of the Borghese family, who remained feudal lords until the suppression of feudalism in 1816.
In 1925, these last owners sold it to Curzio Gramiccia, who restored it with the help of the renowned engineers Lazzari and Gaspari.
On February 7th, 1927, the medieval manor hosted religious, military, and civil authorities within its walls on the solemn commemoration of Cardinal Filippo Giustini.
In May 1934, the Oblate Fathers of Mary Immaculate bought the castle at the tax collection auction for the sum of 25K Lire, and the latter then resold it and transformed it into various lodgings or apartments.
One of which can now be yours for 70,000 €.
I hope you’ve enjoyed learning a bit about this gorgeous town. If you want more amazing dream real estate tips, subscribe to the blog today!
Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this lovely home.
So it’s been ages since I wrote about my Italian adventures earlier this year. After Venice, my days became pretty hectic and I didn’t have time to write. I thought I’d return to the blog sooner, but life has kept me pretty busy. I’m now back in the US and thinking about my journey so I’m picking up where I left off. If you’re still reading, thanks!
After departing Orvieto on March 27th, 2022, I drove to Maremma so I could spend a few blissful days decompressing in Saturnia. The weather would have other plans, but alas, I digress. On the way to Saturnia, I stopped in medieval Pitigliano. I had bought a delicious porchetta sandwich from a salumeria in Orvieto, and I thought I’d work off the calories on the streets of this Tuscan gem.
A Little About Pitigliano
Carved from volcanic stone, the town of Pitigliano is located near the thermal mineral waters of Bagno San Filipo. In 2021, I read a gothic romance written by Ouida (Maria Louise Ramé) titled In Maremma which sparked my curiosity about this portion of Tuscany. If you are looking for a gothic novel set in Italy, this book is a must. Musa, the star-crossed and defiant heroine, is a character you won’t soon forget.
If you are interested in learning a little more about Ouida (who moved to Italy from England), I recommend reading The Epitome And Portrait Of Modern Society: Ouida As Social Barometer Of The Victorian Era by Lorraine Michelle Dubuisson from the University of Mississippi. After reading several of her books, she’s become one of my favorite 19th Century authors.
Until the 19th century, the southern Tuscan area known as the Maremma was an inhospitable wasteland. Notoriously marshy, the area was plagued by black clouds of mosquitos infected with malaria and overrun by bandits. The Maremma was seen as a backwater and snubbed by Italians who preferred the milder and more tamed areas of northern and western Tuscany. In the 20th century, efforts to drain the marshes and cures for malaria turned this forgotten land into a desirable destination. Astonishingly fertile, the Maremma now yields a wealth of produce. Whereas Tuscany’s north is a magnet for tourists interested in cultural treasures, the Maremma’s hearty, wholesome food and wine attract gourmands from around the globe.
The countryside in the Maremma is truly stunning and unless you’re dipping into Saturnia at night, you’ll survive the mosquitos (more on this later).
Pitigliano is carved into the volcanic rock (tufo) and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Known as Little Jerusalem due to the large Jewish community that thrived within its walls in the 16th century, this Tuscan jewel lies at the crossroads of the Lente, Meleta, and Prochio valleys. Legend suggests that the ancient town was founded by a pair of thieves, Petilio and Celiano, who fled Rome after stealing Jupiter’s golden crown. The duo took refuge in the countryside caves beneath Pitigliano (I did say the Maremma was notorious for bandits), founding a community named Petiliano. The origins of the town date back to the Neolithic Age and later the Etruscans. The Etruscans favored plateaus, caves, and highly defensible areas (just look at Civita di Bagnoreggio & Orvieto) and hand-excavated their homes from the volcanic rock.
My first glimpse of this village from the parking lot was breathtaking.
When in Pitigliano, prepare to make very sharp turns as you scale toward the top. Whatever you do, don’t drive thorugh the main gate or you will face some serious penalties. Park outside of town in designated parking lots and walk.
Once inside the town, you will be treated to a feast of ancient architechture and winding alleyways bedecked with flowers. Unlike Spello, which is a bit too “Disney” for me, Pitigliano feels very much lived in. This is a working city that hasn’t yet been overrun by tourism. The views over the valley from its piazzas are stunning.
Pitigliano Real Estate
If you like cave homes and close quarter living within ancient walls, you’ll fall in love with this small town. If you like tall regal ceilings, vast palazzos, gardens, and parking spaces, you should look elsewhere. Pitigliano is a warren of tight alleyways and tiny dwellings. A bit of speluncaphobia is necessary to live like a proper Etruscan.
You can buy a home in the centro for under 200K like this cave home (198K). I actually walked to the front door of this one while I was there and it’s on a really cute street close to everything. Perhaps by the time you read this, it will be sold…but it’s still a good example of what your money can buy. Since I was in Italy, the Euro has fallen dramatically against the dollar so it’s never been a better time to buy. As I write this, 1 EUR is worth 0.99 USD.
Here is a restored pied-a-terre with a little terrace for 158K. This one is smaller but more light-filled.
I’m a gardening and nature fanatic and towns like Pitigliano just feel too claustrophobic for me. I live in the middle of the woods right now, so this would require some serious thought. I’m not sure I’m ready to be surrouned by endless stone. Trees are very important to me. As a vacation place, the lack of a major airport within striking distance puts Southern Tuscany at a disadvantage. I would want to be able to get to a Freccia Rossa train station and international airport within an hour.
Orsini Palace, Pitigliano
There are a few sights in Pitigliano you shouldn’ t miss. One of those is the Orsini Palace. Founded in the 15th Century, the palace was enlarged by Count Niccolo II Orsini and modified in the 1500’s by Niccolo IV. Twenty one rooms are open to the public where you will glimpse restored frescoes, original furniture, jewelry, and objects of art. This gorgeous place is well worth the € 5.00 entry fee.
Finally, My Sandwich With A View
I unwrapped my pork sandwich which was warm from sitting in the car, and just wow. Between my hunger, the amazing flavor of the slow braised pork, and the view, I was in heaven. In Italy, the simplest food tastes divine.
While in Orvieto I wanted to get a better sense of the surrounding areas and the countryside. On March 21st (Monday) I took a long drive through Porano and Bolsena. Mondays are sleepy in these small towns and many of the restaurants and attractions are closed. Sadly while in Bolsena Centro Storico I didn’t get to go into the museums.
Porano is an idyllic Medieval hamlet surrounded by expansive countryside filled with birdsong. Along my way there I stopped to make way for a pheasant crossing the road. The medieval nucleus is encircled by fortified walls. The small church of San Biagio at its center dates back to the 14th Century and is frescoed by the Orvieto school.
Villa Paolina
Porano is also the location of Villa Paolina which I desperately wanted to visit, but it’s been closed due to COVID. I first learned of Villa Paolina from a coffee table book of Italian gardens.
Also known as del Corniolo, due to the abundance of these wild shrubs in the area, Villa Paolina is a vast complex that develops between steep tuff cliffs along the road that leads from Porano towards Bagnoregio. The foliage hides most of it from view and at the same time adds mystery. The villa stands at the end of a long tree-lined avenue and its park extends over 9 hectares. The park complex includes various garden areas with classical topiary designs, arboretums, and completely wild areas. The villa was built by the will of the Marquis Giovan Battista Gualtiero in 1706 on a pre-existing monastic structure and served as a summer residence. In 1874 the complex was transformed by the Viti Mariani family before coming into possession of the Casini family. Since the 1980s it has been owned by the Province of Terni. The home now consists of a central building with two side wings with an entrance from the garden via a double semicircular staircase. All the windows of the facade are arched and the interior is decorated in a nineteenth-century grotesque style. Etruscan tombs dating back to the 4th century BC have been found throughout its park.
I could totally see myself volunteering to do some gardening here or running some tours in English. What a fantastic place!
Castel Rubello
Porano is also home to Castel Rubello which many historians believe to have been built in the 11th Century, though its first mention in the town archives dates back to 1292. The castle was home to the powerful Monaldeschi of Orvieto (who owned Collelungo as well). In the 1500s ownership changed to the Valente family who transformed it into a villa. To beautify the castle they commissioned a renowned Umbrian painter named Cesare Nebbia to realize a cycle of marvelous frescoes, still perfectly preserved today. The Valente also added a monumental fireplace in 1541. In the 18th century the castle was taken over by the Salvatori family, and then by the Marinis whose last heiress got married in 1892 to the Marquise Nicola Serafini Trinci, whose heirs are the current owners of the structure. The Trinci if you recall also owned the ruined castle I hiked to atop Rasiglia.
On my way out, I stopped on the side of the road and walked through the fortified complex to admire the views. Looking around, I wondered if the family who owns the castle appreciates how special it is or if the place is just “another” country house for them.
I think it’s possible to book a private tour of the castle. I’d have to talk to someone from the area.
I searched all over the web for images of the interior of the castle with its frescoes and did manage to find one at a wedding planning site. That’s one incredible room.
I really loved Porano as a town and I could envision myself there, but by the time I visited a second time, I had learned that the home I had connected with had some serious (and potentially very costly) structural issues. An engineering report has revealed that the house is leaning toward the garden side and that the only way to shore it up is to drive pylons into the foundation every eight meters. The cost I’ve heard to fix this has fluctuated between 17K-70K€ and that’s not counting the other refurbishments the house needs such as electrics, new heating implants, windows, kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Tossing money into the ground at an unseen problem is not an ideal way to start a real estate adventure in Italy, but alas, I’ve yet to see any other house that I’ve liked more than the one in Porano.
As it turns out, masonry buildings with a few years on their backs often end up presenting problems of differential subsidence that lead to the appearance of cracks on walls, floors, and load-bearing beams. The stability of buildings, especially when they rest on clay soils can fail and lead to settling movements and destabilization. Depending on the soil, buildings can begin to sink and shift. This movement can be exacerbated by temperature fluctuations, groundwater, drought, seismic events, and interventions nearby.
Fortunately, there is an effective solution to these problems. Micropalifcation intervention allows the transfer of the structural load to a denser layer of stable soil beneath the building. This process involves the use of small steel poles (around 100 mm thick) that can be applied to both ancient and modern buildings, in order to reinforce the foundations of deteriorated or heavily loaded areas. The whole process can be accomplished in 2-3 days. To learn more go to this page and hit translate.
The house, if you recall had a ruined granary leaning on one side. This building would have to be demolished in order for the micropali to be inserted. I don’t really care for this ruin so that didn’t bother me too much. The thing is…do I like this house enough to pay for this intervention? The agent suggested I make an offer taking into account the cost of this intervention ~50-70K€ less than the asking price. The way I see it, anything in this area is going to be expensive and will likely need restructuring, so at this point, I’m not sure.
We’ll see what my husband thinks of the home and go from there. I haven’t stopped thinking about it since I saw it. Sigh.
I’ve also received some pictures of the home’s garden in bloom, further tugging my heartstrings. I do seem to recall my husband saying he wanted to restore something…but do we have the stomach for such a project?
While I was inside the house I didn’t notice any major cracks on the walls, but maybe I wasn’t paying close enough attention.
Part of me says, forget it. Another part of me is saying, fix it. Needless to say, I’m more confused than ever!
The only thing to do now is to wait and look at this report and the engineer’s recommendations and cost breakdowns. If my husband likes the house, then we need to get second opinions from an engineer that is a neutral party (as this one is connected to the agent’s company) and go from there.
So…there you have it…
Refurbishing this house may cost hundreds of thousands when all is said and done. What the hell.
Amelia is not on most people’s radar when it comes to tourism and that’s part of its appeal. After picking up my THIRD rental car at Rome Fiumicino Airport (on March 19th), I stopped in Amelia for the afternoon. The drive from Todi to Rome twice in one day was nothing short of grueling and I needed to stretch my legs. The car I was given was an older blue Renault Clio. While more efficient than the previous boat, it didn’t have some of the newer Clio’s bells and whistles. Still, Apple Car Play worked just fine. The long drive proved to me just how convenient Orvieto was as a location. Todi adds a whole hour to the commute to Rome and the train station is not so convenient. Amelia is closer to Rome than Orvieto and is well served by good train service. I find that the countryside around Orvieto is prettier than around Amelia. There is more industry the closer you get to Rome. Orte to the South is even worse on that front. Around Orvieto, and in many parts of Umbria, the countryside is protected by law from urban sprawl. Lazio is a bit laxer with its rules in that regard.
Megalithic Walls of Amelia
One of the first things that struck me when I parked in Amelia was its massive megalithic polygonal curtain wall. Amelia is one of the oldest cities in Italy dating back to the seventh century BC.
Wow! I had seen massive blocks like these in the acropolis of Civitavecchia in Arpino last June and immediately made a connection. Amelia occupies a hillock in the southwestern corner of Umbria above the River Tiber to the east and the River Nera to the west.
Statue of Germanicus in Amelia
Amelia is said to have been established by the legendary Umbri leader, King Ameroe, who named the settlement Ameria. As in most of Umbria, both Roman and Umbrian civilizations have left their mark. Fifty years ago, the well-preserved bronze statue of Germanicus was uncovered near Amelia. Though it has received little renown, this magnificent bronze is now displayed in a hall of the Civic Archaeological Museum. The statue depicts Germanicus, dressed in military armor, in the act of adlocutio: when, in front of the deployed army, the emperor used words to reinforce the soldiers’ morale before a battle. The most intriguing part of this statue is the imagery on Germanicus’ breastplate.
Germanicus Julius Caesar, the nephew of Tiberius, commanded the Roman forces in their campaign of 14-16 AD against the Germanic tribes. Three Roman legions were obliterated in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest in 9 AD. This battle is known as the greatest disaster in Roman military history.
Plans for revenge were started by Emperor Augustus and executed by his successor Tiberius. Germanicus was given command of eight legions (one-third of the Roman Army). A keen military strategist, Germanicus destroyed the German opposition and recovered two of the three legionary eagles which had been lost. Upon returning to Rome, Germanicus was given a triumph. Coins depicting him on a triumphal chariot were issued later by his son Gaius (future emperor Caligula). On the back of each coin is an inscription that reads, “Standards Recovered. Germans Defeated.”
In AD 18 he was given charge of the eastern part of the empire and fought in Asia and Egypt. The prince-designate of the Empire, died in Antioch (Syria) at the age of 34 in 19 AD. He passed away at the height of his political career and popularity.
But back to the breastplate…what stands out is the elaborate muscular lorica with Achilles’ ambush on Troilus. Perhaps, the artist who sculpted the scene thought of Germanicus as the new Alexander and made reference to Achilles, Germanicus’ favorite hero. Or perhaps, he thought of the character of royal lineage who died young and by violent means, harkening back to Troilus. Alas, we’ll never know.
The Romans also made enormous cisterns beneath the city which unfortunately I couldn’t tour. I focused instead on tasting the local cuisine and exploring the city on foot to burn off calories. When visiting Amelia, do yourself a favor and park outside the historic center, this goes for many of the hilltowns in Italy.
As far as restaurants are concerned, I couldn’t have done better than ConVitto, a purveyor and producer of local food specialties as well as a restaurant with a grotto-like dining room. They had tables outside on the terrace as well but the day was a little chilly. The menu is truly inspiring especially if you go there in a group. The staff was kind enough to mix and match some items for me and everything I had was superb. Great atmosphere and great food, enough said.
I had seen a few properties in Amelia that intrigued me–and in fact, may intrigue you as well. One was an ancient palazzo with Roman mosaics in the cellar. The lack of a garden on this one was a problem for me, but for 75K€, it is a bargain in the city center. It’s enormous with vaulted brick ceilings, a panoramic rooftop terrace, and an inner courtyard.
Inside the walls, accessible through the Porta Romana, Amelia is a very well-preserved medieval city. The upper part offers a view of the Tiber Valley and in the center of the city lies Piazza del Duomo where the cathedral and the 30-meter-high Torre Civica (Civic Tower) are located. The Amelia Cathedral was built in 872 and totally rebuilt in Baroque style after a fire in 1629. Its current façade is in pink cotto and was completed only in the 19th century. The interior has works by Federico Zuccari, Lavinia Fontana, Agostino di Duccio, an organ from 1600, and a Turkish banner captured at Lepanto.
I had a peaceful time meandering the deserted meandering alleys and peeking into people’s secret gardens. I’m always amazed how Italians don’t bother much with their green spaces despite them being a rarity in city centers. I had fun photographing this ancient city, especially some of the smaller details that I found inspiring design-wise. And of course, I’m always keen to make friends with the local cats.
A study sponsored by Expedia, recently found that America trails behind the rest of the world in work-life balance. On the metric of paid vacation, Americans typically receive 15 paid vacation days from their employers but take only 12. Across Europe, paid vacation days are an undisputed right. Spanish workers, for example. are given 30 days off and take all 30. The same is true of the Finnish and French. Italian and German workers are given 30 days of vacation and take 25 and 28 of those days, respectively. Australians also benefit from a month off. What’s worse is that Americans report checking their email several times a day while on vacation and are often on call.
There isn’t a day that goes by that I don’t feel incredibly blessed and happy to be able to take such an extended break. Since I’ve been here several things have happened:
I’ve lost weight
My aches and pains have miraculously disappeared, including my neck and wrist pain for which I’ve been in therapy for the last 2 months
I have more energy than ever despite drinking a lot less coffee
I’m no longer suffering from mind fog or feeling anxious and sad
I’m sleeping better and feel overall optimistic
I’ve regained my confidence
I have not gotten a single headache since I got here despite averaging one a week back home
Perhaps it’s the sunlight, the food, or the daily exercise. Perhaps it’s having time away from everything. Whatever it is, Italy is agreeing with me. I’m a little travel weary because I’ve driven and seen A LOT, but that being said, I haven’t felt this good in ages.
My husband asked me today whether I could live here. The answer is, absolutely yes. I have felt so welcome here. Strangers have helped me solve many little problems during the last few weeks and have always been ready with a smile. I love that in smaller borgos people politely greet each other on the street. It’s been nice to see children play in the piazzas and teens interacting with each other rather than just their mobile phones. I like that signage along roads is limited. I could count the number of billboards I’ve seen driving around. The countryside is gorgeous in just about every direction and public transportation is a joy to use.
I know I haven’t updated in a while. I’ve been terribly busy running around and enjoying myself. So let’s go back nine days ago to March 20th (the day Hertz decided to sell my rental). I had seen an intriguing palazzo from the 1700s with a walled garden online in Collelungo (San Venanzo) and on a whim, I drove there from Todi.
Collelungo Is Tranquility Defined
Collelungo is a fascinating little corner of the world. Collelungo is mentioned in a land registry of 1292 in the Historical Archive of Perugia as the ancient Villa collis longis under the jurisdiction of the territory of Orvieto, hence the exact name of the place: Collelungo di Orvieto. From the 13th Century onwards it was under the jurisdiction of Orvieto, of which it was an outpost that dominated the Tiber river route and the Tiber valley. In 1295 the Municipality of Orvieto borrowed the sum of 1222 florins from Monaldo Monaldeschito in order to defend itself from conflicts with neighboring Todi, Viterbo, and Arezzo.
The Medieval Walls of the Castle of Collelungo
When the war was over, the municipality was unable to pay its debt and so it sold the Assets of the Mountain (Monte Peglia) with all the neighboring lands of Melonta, Terracane, Castelvecchio, S. Venanzo, Rotecastello, Ripalvella, and Collelungo to the Monaldeschi family who then fortified. In 1394 Monaldo di Bernardo di Monaldo feudal lord of the Guelph party, annexed these assets under the protection of Pope Boniface IX. In 1816, Collelungo became part of the municipality of San Venanzo.
The medieval walls are still standing and quite impressive with their intact watchtowers. The garden of the house I was interested in includes one said tower (the one in the front of the photo) inside which is a well. Inside the walls, there is an ancient building dedicated to St. Matthias the Apostle with frescoed walls, and in the parish church, known as the sanctuary of the Madonna Della Luce, it is possible to observe a precious 15th-century fresco of the virgin attributed to Pietro di Nicola di Orvieto.
Madonna Della Luce
The image of the Madonna della Luce remained hidden for several centuries in the old church by a layer of plaster which miraculously fell on April 24, 1827, at 9 o’clock. during the return of a procession. At first, only the face of the Virgin emerged, but strangely, the plaster continued to fall piece by piece until the full image was revealed. From that moment onwards the legend spread and pilgrims began flocking.
When I arrived, a funeral was taking place and it was a little awkward as this is a very small place (with only 168 residents). As I’m wandering the streets taking in the peaceful surroundings, two of the townsfolk approach me and introduce themselves. They are thrilled that I might be interested in this villa, you see, as they live across from it. “We can be neighbors,” they tell me. “This is such a wonderful villa! The cellar used to be the old post office. It’s from the 1600s. Surely there are not many places like this with such a beautiful garden”–they swoon–”with the old tower and the well. Come, let us show you.” Next thing I know we are through the gate. I follow them to the old tower and marvel at the deep well. With global warming and no rain for the last 100 days, having water is very handy. After our brief tour, we spend the next forty minutes talking. They tell me how wonderful the town is, how in the summer tables are set up outside and everyone eats dinner together. They were so sweet that I considered calling the number on the for sale sign. We’d literally have the best neighbors in the world.
Before I departed we exchanged email addresses and are corresponding with each other. They tell me that the town is served by fiber internet access and that the nearby train station of Marsciano will soon reopen. During the summer months, a bar opens at the entrance of town.
At 2+ hours to Rome, Collelungo is a tad too remote for us…but it’s got peace and quiet in spades.
I haven’t had time to write the last few days because I’ve been out and about. I’ve now been in Italy for 13 days and things are beginning to make sense and feel familiar. Hertz sold my cute rental while I was on the road and that threw a huge wrench into my plans…but I’m back on track. I didn’t know rental car companies could do that but I guess they can. I was out in Collelungo San Venanzo when I got the call from the Rome Fiumicino office. They needed me to turn in my car immediately at Perugia Stazione where I could switch cars. I was 40 kilometers away so I told them I’d go that very same day. The office was, of course, closed for siesta. So I walk to the nearest COOP and get some lunch and eat it in the car while I wait. When the clerk returns, he doesn’t even offer an apology. Really terrible customer service if you ask me. No apology, no discount, no nothing. I then get handed a ginormous car that looks like a hearse. This thing is big, right. I’m like, “Don’t you have anything more compact?” The answer is, “This is Perugia, not Rome.”
Distinctly Italian, no?
So now I’m stuck with this huge car that I can barely park in normal spaces or maneuver through these tiny streets, not to mention it’s a gas-guzzling hunk of metal. The GPS sucks too.
I was very annoyed, but this is, at the end of the day, a first-world problem.
After a few pointed e-mails, tweets, and phone calls, I convince the Rome office to give me another Renault Clio when one comes in. I just got the email today that I can pick one up tomorrow in Rome. It’s a long drive back and forth, but I’ll make the best of it. I would rather have the car that does nearly 1000 km per gas tank and the great bells and whistles.
This switching car thing is now getting old. 😀
So…after I saw that beautiful 19th Century palazzo, I saw two other houses before driving on to Todi.
My husband and I haven’t made up our minds about moving to Italy, but we’re hinging on the possibility. We’re evaluating the cost of living and the pros and cons. While I’m here I’m looking to see what’s on the market and whether or not it can work for us. We have somewhat quirky tastes (just look at our current house). So without further delay let me fill you in on the houses I went to see during the last few days.
The Lake House With Views
This house caught my eye because of the view. It’s a new build but made with exquisite care by an older gent who owns a castle and is in the process of restoring it. This man was very sweet and passionate about his work. The house is incredibly overbuilt, insulated, and ready for the finishing touches. The builder can deliver the house finished for approximately €80K above the sale price (recently reduced to 250K). The position of this house makes you feel like you’re on an airplane looking down. Even unfinished the house has such enormous potential and character. Really stunning location…with one-of-a-kind views over the nature preserve. I found that the small yard didn’t suit my gardening dreams and that it was a bit far from amenities. I also missed the character that can only be found in older homes.
The Cottage with Olive Grove
This house was located in a more rural context with fantastic views over the countryside. The house comes with two wells and sloping acreage planted with olive groves. Its current owner is an artist–a lovely lady who welcomed us warmly. The interior was roomy but much too modern for my taste. Again, I missed the stone facade, the beams, the character. This house was listed for 330K€ and just didn’t seem to offer the value of Casa Liberta.
The Templar Monastery
Oh boy… where to begin? We had gotten excited about this house as soon as we saw it. Todi Centro Storico, huge walled yard, 12th Century construction, decent size, balconies, loggias, parking–this house seemed to tick all the boxes–until it didn’t. Let’s just say some things look great on paper but in reality, they fall apart (quite literally). A good photographer can opt to show you only what they want you to see and obscure the rest. This is why it’s so important to visit a place in person and have that visceral understanding.
Built in 1100, the Templar monastery is still standing, but I wonder for how long. The house needs a new roof, windows, shutters, heating, plumbing, kitchens, bathrooms, plaster, floors, you name it. The bones are for sale for €390K but according to the agent, it would require an additional €400K of investment to fix. When I was inside this house I felt nothing. I mean absolutely nothing, that is until we got to the back and he showed me a crack that spans 3-floors and through which I could see daylight. Then, I felt a sense of horror creep over me. This was possibly the biggest money pit I had ever laid eyes on. The house looks great from 30 feet away outside, but inside it’s a disaster.
You can feel it in the angle of the floor, the back third of the house is sloping down and ready to fall and possibly take the original Medieval wall to which it is attached with it. The agent kept waxing poetic about the merits of Templar construction, but I wasn’t buying what he was selling. This house was beyond wrecked, made worse by the fact that the previous owner had begun to literally dig for templar treasure on site.
What? Seriously?
Fireplaces were ripped out and missing, there was a tube for a heating stove coming right up through the second-floor living room, the roof was bowed, and the bathrooms stank as though the pipes had burst somewhere. To make matters worse, the garden wasn’t private but shared with another property, and the view out the front is of this really ugly house with glass brick windows. Even the cellars with the beautiful vaults had been ruined by strange excavations, false cement walls, and graffiti. The building is also controlled by the historic commission so building permits will be difficult.
After the tour was over I felt sadness for this poor house. Who will buy this sorry building and love it once more? Short answer: Not me. This needs prayer and Templar gold to bring it back from the brink.
Pranzo!
Pizzeria Cavour
After seeing the monastery, I had a fabulous outdoor lunch at a place called Pizzeria Cavour. I just happened to be walking by and noticed they had outdoor seating and went inside. It was a beautiful warm day, perfect for dining al fresco. I had their house antipasto, a grilled artichoke salad with slivered almonds and pecorino, and a glass of wine. The views from the terrace were superb and I had the pleasure of pleasant conversation with the gentleman sitting at the adjacent table.
The Stunning 12th Century Castle
After lunch, I rushed to my next viewing, a 12th-century castle, turned private home, 7km north of Todi. As soon as I parked, the view from the top awed me. The castle is imposing and utterly beautiful and at €390K–a real bargain considering it’s habitable. It dominates the Borgo of Montemolino with its tower and far-reaching views and was the site of several bloody battles between the Guelfs from Perugia and Ghibellines of Todi for control of the river (here called the Furioso for its rapids). The place was of strategic importance due to the presence of a bridge over the Tiber, an almost obligatory passage for those who wanted to venture to central-southern Italy. The Perugians, under the command of Gentile Orsini, won an overwhelming victory.
The castle takes its name from the presence of an important wheat mill that was housed inside. In fact, I saw where the water wheel once turned in the bowels of the castle. That was really special.
The fortress is currently very well preserved and used as a private summer residence. The door, with a round arch, is surmounted by a lunette with a fresco inside depicting the Virgin, San Michele Arcangelo and San Cristoforo. This fresco is stunning and has been recently restored as has all the outdoor paving.
I took a lot of pictures of this place…and I kind of loved it but with more than a few caveats. This place is mega large (almost 10K square feet) and rural. There are no amenities on the hill so living here would mean driving at least 20 minutes to the nearest pharmacy or supermarket. It’s not that much different from where we live now in that sense, but this place requires a vision. The only way I see something like this working is by turning it into tourist accommodation and I’m not sure I want to do that.
The pros are that the roof is done, the structure is solid (and impregnable), the windows are double glazed, it has a walled garden, a jaw-dropping terrace, and a lovely habitable first floor that is move-in ready. There is an intact carpentry workshop complete with tools. It has beams galore, original cotto floors, vaults, caves, and several hectares of forest. The place is–in short–breathtaking.
To agent stipulated that to fix the second floor would take another €200K, the tower and cellar rooms, who knows. The sky’s the limit.
Personally, I think this is biting off more than we can chew, and in order to make it happen, we’d have to immediately sell our current home. Mortgages aren’t a thing in Italy regardless of what you’ve been told.
I took a lot of pictures cause I wanted to have a reference for later in case we were interested. The sellers have various interested parties already which doesn’t surprise me. The only part I didn’t see was the third floor of the tower and the terrace. The ladder I needed to climb looked like it was on its last legs and I didn’t feel safe. I’m sure the view from the tower is surreal.
Little known fact, this castle served as the German High Command during the war.
The 1920’s Palazzo
The following day I saw two more houses in Todi. A 1920s palazzo with three terraces that needed restructuring (€250K) and a newly restructured house complete with Etruscan well (€330K). I liked the drama of the 1920s palazzo a lot more than the newly finished house. The palazzo had plenty of outdoor space including three terraces and a small courtyard. It also had a huge garage which is hard to find as well as vaulted cellars and cantinas. It needed electrics, plumbing, kitchens, bathrooms, doors, windows, heat, (pretty much the works) but the structure is solid and the roof is new. This house felt very livable and it could be perfect for someone who wants to live in the center and make income from tourist rentals. I’m not convinced all that stone is for me. I’m too used to being surrounded by greenery and wild animals. Regardless, I thought some of the original features of this house were beautiful–especially the tiles. I thought it was good that the house had its own well also.
The House of the Well
This house has no outdoor space so it was an immediate no for me, but it was right next door to the other palazzo so why not…good to compare. This house was half the size of the other one and it felt dark by comparison too. The finishes were very nice I admit, but too shiny and polished. Not to my liking, but hey that Etruscan well that needs a pump running 24/7 so your living room doesn’t flood, that’s hot!
And this brings to a close the houses I’ve seen here. Casa Liberta is still in the lead. On day 10 after my car fiasco, I had a downturn. I started to miss home and got sad at not being able to squeeze my husband. The following day I perked up again and went on some more fun road trips. Next blog post I’ll fill you in on Todi, Spoleto, and more.
I contacted an agency in Orvieto before my departure and scheduled a viewing for an unfinished house in Alviano. Through the course of various emails, the owner of the business (we’ll call her ML) offered to show me more properties and give me the low down on the neighboring areas. I thought it was a great idea and set a date for the 11th and 12th. Early in the morning on Friday, I drove to the free Orvieto Scalo parking lot where ML met me. As it turns out, ML and I instantly hit it off. We were supposed to see a palazzo in Amelia with a walled garden, but that agent never got back to her. Furthermore, that house was not independent. Another owner owned the whole top –meh. So ML drove me to her hometown to show me a house that had just gone on the market and that she hadn’t had the chance to list yet. As soon as we neared the house I found myself thinking, wouldn’t it be cool if it were that one? And as it turns out, it was.
Front of the palazzo
Casa Liberta (as I will call it for now) is an amazing 19th-century palazzo, made entirely of stone with graceful symmetry and a lovely front door. Adjacent to it is a ruined granary that belongs to the property and can be restored, and in the back, there is a glorious Italian walled garden. Pictures can’t convey the warm wonderful feeling of this beautiful home, but God knows, I snapped a lot!
Large hearth in the cellar’s original kitchen
The house has been within the same family since its foundations were laid and because of this many of the features have remained untouched. Currently, it’s the home of the caretaker–a sweet soul who during my visit gave me two jars of jam she made from the garden. She served us coffee and biscuits in her cozy kitchen too.
I can’t explain why, but as soon as I entered this house, I was charmed. Total love at first sight.
The house is almost 3,000 square feet, but it feels intimate and romantic. Each room seems to hug you with its cozy ambiance. In the cellar where the caretaker has made a small apartment, there is a magnificent fireplace adorned with Roman stone reliefs (Shhh….those aren’t supposed to be there). Each floor has original cotto floors and exposed beams. Victorian marble fireplaces, carved doors, ornate balconies, arches, french doors, stone stairs, and lovely views are just some of its graces. The roof has been completely redone, so it’s not something to stress about. Then there is the location which is utterly magical with rolling hills, expansive views, vineyards, and olive groves.
I was honestly stunned when I walked into the walled garden. Even though nothing was in bloom, I could see that the bones were fantastic. Trained climbing roses, soaring pines, terraces, a pond, a vegetable patch, wisteria, grapes, figs…this was a garden I could be very happy in. Then the agent tells me that the land next door with the additional walled garden and the garage was also for sale. What? This was getting better and better!
Then, I fearfully asked about the price, and OMG it was reasonable. I think I smiled. Yes, the house is a time capsule and needs work; the floors need to be consolidated, electrics and heating updated, and the bathrooms and kitchen need refreshing. Still, that’s all doable. So long as the house is habitable, which it is, we could take our time with the rest.
I felt that this place could be really gorgeous once it was fixed up. It’s like old-world Victorian elegance meets country house which I really like. With our eye for design, this place could be turned into a little palace. Inside it was quite bright too as the front of the house faces south.
Anyway, by the time the tour was over, I was giddy with excitement. Casa Liberta had delivered on so many levels! Lots of boxes ticked.
Amazing location: 10 minutes to Orvieto Centro and the train hub where trains depart for all corners of the EU. 1:15 to Rome Airport. 1:30 to Siena. 1:20 to Arezzo. 1:20 to the beach. Under 1hr to Saturnia. 25 minutes to Lake Bolsena. 40 minutes to Viterbo. List goes on!
Walking distance to village: The house is within the village limits so a short walk puts us at the nearest restaurant and bar.
Amenities: The village has a fanatastic pizzeria, several restaurants, a post office, a supermarket, pharmacy, and more. We don’t need to drive to Orvieto for everything.
Detached House: Free on three sides, and the side that’s attached it’s to a building that comes with the property
Option to create separate guest accomodations
Garage/Parking Space
Projects/buildings to restore with option to buy additional garden space and outbuildings
New roof with new copper gutters.
Original features galore: Beams, cotto floors, fireplaces, carved doors
Balcony
Views
Walled Garden
Cellars
Double glazed windows in a large portion of the house with all the wooden window frames in good condition
In a protected area of outstanding natural beauty
Town water/gas/sewer
Immediately habitable
Around the Village
As you can rightfully imagine, I sleepwalked through the other property viewings daydreaming about Casa Liberta. The other two that I saw were nice, but no cigar! The original house I wanted to see turned out to be too isolated for my taste and the other one, too new.
When I called my husband we giggled at the fact that the house was on Liberty Street on a highway named 111. Universe whispering? Maybe. I had second thoughts posting this article for fear that someone would literally snipe this house. I have a feeling that the one I didn’t schedule to see but somehow wound up on my path might be the one.
The second house I visited is located 1km from Soriano Nel Cimino. The whitewashed cottage was built in the 1970s and used mostly as a summer residence by its current owners. The house hasn’t been lived in for about eight years, but it’s in pretty good condition. This is not the sort of house that would normally appeal to me (too new), but something about it captured my imagination. I liked its romantic curves, the pretty outdoor space, and the french doors. The house is surrounded by beautiful trees and has two large terraces, a porch, an outdoor bread oven, and a garage. An adjacent plot of land planted with olive groves is also for sale separately. Even though the house is pretty close to the road, inside it’s very quiet. Each bedroom has parquet wooden floors which I liked, and every window looks out to greenery. This house is a bargain at 170K.
Of course, there are negatives too. The owners never installed a septic tank because they only used the house for brief vacations. They also expanded the house without permits so the house can’t be sold until the owner remediates the discrepancy. This costs money, so he’s not likely to negotiate on the price. The top and bottom floors do not currently communicate from the inside, and creating a stair will be costly. Last but not least, the kitchens and bathrooms are stuck in the 70s and will need updating. The boiler is old and hasn’t been used in eight years, so I doubt it works very well.
Either way, I’m very glad I saw it. The place feels bright and happy and with a little TLC, it could be a great home. At under an hour to Rome’s airport, the location is very good.
I liked it, but I’m not sure my husband will. It may be too contemporary for him. Then again, this place might be a great way to ease ourselves into Italian life.