Lunch in Bevagna
On Friday, March 18th I set out to visit Rasiglia but took a detour at Bevagna for lunch. The drive through the countryside was divine. Signs of spring are everywhere and more than once I had to just stop and take in the view. Pictures speak louder than words and yet they don’t quite compare to actual experience. Pictures can’t capture the crisp wind or the woodsy scent that fills these hills at this time. Farmers burn cut foliage to prevent disease.
Is it any wonder that the legendary account of Francis of Assisi preaching to the birds took place in a field outside Bevagna? The stone on which he allegedly stood when preaching to the birds is now in the Ciccoli Chapel of the Church of San Francesco.
Upon arriving in Bevagna I parked in the free lot and walked to the Centro Storico. Around lunchtime, Italian towns smell divine by the way. You get whiffs of garlic and savory roasted meats, it’s tasty.
Since I’ve been here I’ve just wandered into random places that seem appealing away from the tourist track and I haven’t been disappointed yet. Once I veered off the main street I found an adorable little doorway that I just knew promised good food. Inside Il Grottino, a warm fire crackled in a giant hearth that reminded me of home. In that moment (as with so many moments) I wished that my husband was with me. He would have loved this place. Instead of pasta, I ordered a truffle omelet, some roasted potatoes, and vino, of course. The omelet was seriously divine. Truffles and eggs go naturally well together.
After lunch, I wandered the town and took in the sights. The medieval village of Bevagna was originally an Etrusco-Oscan settlement. Around 80-90 BC it became a Roman municipium, called Mevania. Mevania is mentioned on several ancient itineraries, following the Vicus Martis Tudertium on the way out of Rome. The first historical mention of Bevagna coincides with the Roman conquest of Umbria with the famous Battle of the Sentinel of 295 BC. Bevagna was known for cattle breeding and became an important agricultural and strategic center thanks to its favorable position with great viability and its river port. During Roman times Mevania was equipped with a protective wall, a spa, and an amphitheater, of which some evidence remains.
If you’re interested in a more in-depth review of Bevagna’s ancient Roman remains, read Anne’s Italy Blog. There are fantastic mosaics here as well as Roman ruins to explore. I didn’t have time to do all of this because this was a pitstop on my way to Rasiglia, but I plan to return a few days from now with my husband. Bevagna is one place I think we should visit together. And anyway he has no choice since I’m driving.
Bevagna has some stunning shops along its main street. The ceramics totally drew me in. The main piazza is stunning as is its theater.
The church doors made me giggle they were so gorgeous. Seriously Italians take such pride in their doors!
Onward to Rasiglia
My drive from Bevagna to Rasiglia took me over the mountains and I passed some awesome scenery. I first heard of Rasiglia in Atlas Obscura, one of my favorite websites for off-the-beaten-track travel. Known as the village of brooks, Rasiglia is formed by a small enclave of houses surrounded on all sides by rushing streams. I parked on the road and followed the sound of babbling water to the center where a pool of crystalline water dominates the square. The first written accounts of the village date back to the 12th and 13th centuries when the waters of the Menotre River powered various mills. The water is pure and drinkable and in fact, you can drink it from many of the fountains scattered around town. The townsfolk make their living by selling souvenirs and handmade crafts to visitors. This enchanting fairytale town is crisscrossed by narrow streets with wooden bridges, streams, and rushing waterfalls.
As I meandered through Rasiglia’s streets allowing myself to be led by the soothing sound of the channels and collection pools. I wondered what it might be like to live in one of those little stone houses with that white noise in the background, and then I thought of summer days and tourists jam-packed at my windows. No thanks! There isn’t an inch of privacy in this village. The day I went there were very few visitors.
The water also has a cooling effect so I actually felt chilly. Luckily I had my winter coat with me. Around the village, there was a lot of restoration and construction work in progress. Several buildings were getting a facelift and down the road, modern houses were being built.
Rasiglia Castle
As I was driving toward the town I noticed an ancient and decrepit tower on the top of the hill, and of course, I had to climb it. The way is steep, but the views at the end are worth it. I felt like I had stumbled on some kind of vampire hideout and I got an idea for a short story. Turns out that the tower is what remains of the Castle of Rasiglia built in the 13th century by the affluent Trinci family. The Trinci is a historic noble family from Umbria with strong ties to nearby Foligno. The ruins of the tower were strengthened in 2006 and most likely won’t fall on you. If it does, don’t worry, the cemetery of the village shares the hill.
Jeff Feldman
The stone on which he allegedly stood when preaching to the birds is now in the Ciccoli Chapel of the Church of San Francesco.
Is this the same stone that was at the side of a road between Bevagna and Cantalupo di Bevagna? In 2018 I visited a site with a stone and marker/sign indicating the spot where St. Francis gave his sermon to the birds. Has the stone been moved, or is it a different one? Thank you for letting me know as I am planning to return soon.