Nestled amidst the rolling hills of northern Italy, our adventure led us to the captivating community of Damanhur—a place that defies expectations and delights the senses at every turn. Our visit to this hidden gem was nothing short of enchanting.
As we arrived in Damanhur, we were immediately struck by the sense of harmony and creativity that permeates this unique community. Founded in the late 1970s, Damanhur is not just a village; it’s a living laboratory of art, sustainability, and spiritual exploration. The intricate architecture, adorned with colorful murals and organic shapes, spoke volumes about the values and vision of its residents.
Our journey began with a guided tour of the Temples of Humankind—an underground wonder hidden beneath the hills of Damanhur. Carved entirely by hand into the rock over several decades, these awe-inspiring temples are a testament to human ingenuity and dedication. Each chamber tells a story through intricate mosaics, sculptures, and symbolic artworks—a blend of ancient wisdom and visionary artistry that left us spellbound.
The spirit of creativity permeates every aspect of Damanhur, from its art studios and workshops to its vibrant events and festivals. We were able to walk the labyrinths in the woodland and get to know some of their beliefs. While it’s clear that the community at Damanhur hasn’t always had the best relationship with the law, their beliefs merit strong consideration.
Well worth the visit. Just how deep does the rabbit hole go? Well…suffice it to say there were many more temples beneath the ones we toured.
Our next accomodation was in B&B Castello di Strambinello. This small holding is private and peaceful and the host is wonderful. We got to the hotel late in the evening and were greeted by Santino and his adorable dogs. Our apartments were large, comfortable, and very quiet. I would highly recommend a stay in this house–which was saved from collapse and lovingly restored. The breakfast is held in the cozy dining room and cooked to order by Santino. Conversation between the guests was lively and we were given the tip to visit Damanhur which is nearby.
On a crisp autumn day, we drove to Verres Castle. The castle is perched atop a hill in the charming town of Verres, Italy. This medieval marvel, steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking scenery.
The climb to the castle was no easy feat, but with each step, anticipation grew, fueled by the desire to uncover the secrets held within these ancient walls.
Reaching the summit, we were greeted by the imposing façade straight out of a storybook. Dating back to the 14th century, this fortress has witnessed centuries of tumultuous history, from noble families to battles and conquests.
Stepping inside, we were transporteded back in time. The castle’s interior was a maze of corridors, chambers, and courtyards, each corner whispering tales of its storied past. From the great halls adorned with medieval artifacts to the intimate chapel displaying religious relics, every room exuded an air of mystery and grandeur.
What struck me most about Verres Castle was its authenticity. Unlike some tourist attractions that feel staged, this castle retained its raw, unfiltered character—a testament to its enduring legacy. The preservation efforts were evident, allowing visitors like myself to immerse fully in its medieval ambiance.
After exploring every nook and cranny, we descended from the castle and had an excellent lunch at a local trattoria.
If you find yourself in the Aosta Valley, don’t miss the chance to visit Verres Castle. It’s more than a tourist attraction; it’s a portal to another era, a gateway to a world of knights and kings, waiting to be explored.
Fort Bard
After Verres we drove to Fort Bard. We were surprised to find Halloween decorations in town.
On the approach to the castle, we were struck by its commanding presence. Perched atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the charming village of Bard, the castle’s rugged stone walls and imposing towers hinted at a storied past filled with legends and tales of noble families.
Nestled in the scenic Aosta Valley, Fort Bard commands attention from its rocky perch above the town of Bard—a testament to centuries of strategic importance. Built in the 19th century by the House of Savoy and meticulously restored, the fort now welcomes visitors as the captivating Museum of the Alps.
The history of Fort Bard is steeped in resilience and intrigue. Originally established by Theodoric I in the 5th century, the fortress evolved over time, culminating in the construction of the current complex by Charles Albert of Savoy between 1830 and 1838. This formidable stronghold replaced a 10th-century castle and played a key role in controlling the historic route between Italy and France.
Fort Bard’s most remarkable chapter unfolded in May 1800, during Napoleon Bonaparte’s campaign. Against all odds, 400 Austro-Piedmontese soldiers stationed at the fort held off a 40,000-strong French army for two weeks, thwarting Napoleon’s plans for a surprise attack on the Po Valley and Turin. Enraged by this setback, Napoleon famously dubbed the fort “vilain castel de Bard” and ordered its destruction—an order that was later reversed.
The fort’s reconstruction was entrusted to Italian military engineer Francesco Antonio Olivero, who crafted a formidable stronghold with two distinct levels.
Visiting Fort Bard is an immersive experience. The museum within the complex delves into the history of the Alps and hosts art exhibitions and cultural events, adding vibrancy to this window into history.
Today we embarked on a captivating journey back in time at Fénis Castle, nestled in Aosta Valley. In the dreary fog and rain, the castle’s ancient stones seemed to resonate with history and mystique, beckoning us to step into a world of knights and noble feasts.
As we approached the castle, its silhouette emerged from the mist like something out of a fairy tale—a majestic manor house with towering turrets and double-crenellated walls, proudly standing on a gentle hill surrounded by verdant meadows. Unlike other castles built for defense, Fénis Castle was once the opulent residence of the illustrious Challant family, where administrative prowess merged with noble luxury.
Stepping inside, we were immediately struck by the grandeur of the interiors. Giant fireplaces and vast cooking hearths dominated the kitchen area, hinting at the sumptuous banquets and lavish feasts that once graced these halls. The castle’s architecture was a testament to medieval ingenuity, with its pentagonal layout and circular turrets, showcasing the artistic vision of Aimone di Challant in the 14th century.
The highlight of our visit was the breathtaking courtyard—a true masterpiece of medieval artistry. Adorned with frescoes depicting saints and sages, the courtyard whispered stories of bygone eras, where power and refinement intertwined seamlessly.
An entire cow could be roasted on the left side where the flagstones are. The hood is among the largest in Europe at nearly 18 meters high. This fireplace was used to heat the entire castle as well as to smoke meat for preservation. There is also a door inside it. Fenis castle dates to 1242.
After our enchanting tour of the castle, we had a lovely lunch of traditional dishes at Le Bourg Trattoria.
Built in 1710 on the ruins of a fortress mentioned as early as 1242, having passed through various hands, the property was purchased by the King of Italy Victor Emanuel II, who renovated it and used it during hunting expeditions in Val d’Aosta.
The royal castle of Sarre, after becoming the private property of the Savoys, was used as their headquarters for expeditions in the valleys of Cogne, Rhêmes and Valsavarenche. As you can see, he hunted chamois, ibex and other game almost to extinction.
This place is reminiscent of a twisted fairytale. I had thoughts of Beauty stepping through the grand doorway into a ballroom filled with thousands upon thousands of animal skulls. It’s all quite demented and over the top.
Personally, I wasn’t into the thousands of dead animal skulls and horns…but I can’t say it wasn’t unique.
No trip to Courmayeur would be complete without an ascent to Monte Bianco. Luckily, we had near perfect visibility.
Skyway Monte Bianco is a cable car in the Italian Alps that links the town of Courmayeur with Pointe Helbronner on the southern side of Mont Blanc massif. Taking over three years to construct, it opened in 2015 at a cost of 110 million euros, and is considered to be the world’s most expensive cable car installation.
The Monte Bianco Skyway is a one of a kind way to experience the tallest peak in Italy. Must do when in the area.
This year we had planned an extensive journey through Egypt to see the ancient sights along the Nile. When fighting broke out in Gaza, we decided to cancel the trip on the advice of friends who live in Cairo.
That gave us less than two weeks to pivot if we wanted a vacation. My first instinct was Italy, but we wanted to see a region we hadn’t experienced before. Enter Piedmonte in the North. Fall weather, food festivals, and a sleepy slow food and wine tour seemed ideal.
Well, here we are in our first stop—a luxurious mountain chalet at the foot of Monte Bianco. This was a long drive from Milan, but so worth it. Just look at the pyramids nature has created! We arrived on a picture perfect day and we’re treated to one of the best views of our lives. I kind of don’t want to leave the hotel!
We are staying at Auberge de la Maison, some 300 meters away from Skyway Monte Bianco.
The view from our room is nothing short of stunning! And the staff here is wonderful.
So it’s been ages since I wrote about my Italian adventures earlier this year. After Venice, my days became pretty hectic and I didn’t have time to write. I thought I’d return to the blog sooner, but life has kept me pretty busy. I’m now back in the US and thinking about my journey so I’m picking up where I left off. If you’re still reading, thanks!
After departing Orvieto on March 27th, 2022, I drove to Maremma so I could spend a few blissful days decompressing in Saturnia. The weather would have other plans, but alas, I digress. On the way to Saturnia, I stopped in medieval Pitigliano. I had bought a delicious porchetta sandwich from a salumeria in Orvieto, and I thought I’d work off the calories on the streets of this Tuscan gem.
A Little About Pitigliano
Carved from volcanic stone, the town of Pitigliano is located near the thermal mineral waters of Bagno San Filipo. In 2021, I read a gothic romance written by Ouida (Maria Louise Ramé) titled In Maremma which sparked my curiosity about this portion of Tuscany. If you are looking for a gothic novel set in Italy, this book is a must. Musa, the star-crossed and defiant heroine, is a character you won’t soon forget.
If you are interested in learning a little more about Ouida (who moved to Italy from England), I recommend reading The Epitome And Portrait Of Modern Society: Ouida As Social Barometer Of The Victorian Era by Lorraine Michelle Dubuisson from the University of Mississippi. After reading several of her books, she’s become one of my favorite 19th Century authors.
Until the 19th century, the southern Tuscan area known as the Maremma was an inhospitable wasteland. Notoriously marshy, the area was plagued by black clouds of mosquitos infected with malaria and overrun by bandits. The Maremma was seen as a backwater and snubbed by Italians who preferred the milder and more tamed areas of northern and western Tuscany. In the 20th century, efforts to drain the marshes and cures for malaria turned this forgotten land into a desirable destination. Astonishingly fertile, the Maremma now yields a wealth of produce. Whereas Tuscany’s north is a magnet for tourists interested in cultural treasures, the Maremma’s hearty, wholesome food and wine attract gourmands from around the globe.
The countryside in the Maremma is truly stunning and unless you’re dipping into Saturnia at night, you’ll survive the mosquitos (more on this later).
Pitigliano is carved into the volcanic rock (tufo) and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Known as Little Jerusalem due to the large Jewish community that thrived within its walls in the 16th century, this Tuscan jewel lies at the crossroads of the Lente, Meleta, and Prochio valleys. Legend suggests that the ancient town was founded by a pair of thieves, Petilio and Celiano, who fled Rome after stealing Jupiter’s golden crown. The duo took refuge in the countryside caves beneath Pitigliano (I did say the Maremma was notorious for bandits), founding a community named Petiliano. The origins of the town date back to the Neolithic Age and later the Etruscans. The Etruscans favored plateaus, caves, and highly defensible areas (just look at Civita di Bagnoreggio & Orvieto) and hand-excavated their homes from the volcanic rock.
My first glimpse of this village from the parking lot was breathtaking.
When in Pitigliano, prepare to make very sharp turns as you scale toward the top. Whatever you do, don’t drive thorugh the main gate or you will face some serious penalties. Park outside of town in designated parking lots and walk.
Once inside the town, you will be treated to a feast of ancient architechture and winding alleyways bedecked with flowers. Unlike Spello, which is a bit too “Disney” for me, Pitigliano feels very much lived in. This is a working city that hasn’t yet been overrun by tourism. The views over the valley from its piazzas are stunning.
Pitigliano Real Estate
If you like cave homes and close quarter living within ancient walls, you’ll fall in love with this small town. If you like tall regal ceilings, vast palazzos, gardens, and parking spaces, you should look elsewhere. Pitigliano is a warren of tight alleyways and tiny dwellings. A bit of speluncaphobia is necessary to live like a proper Etruscan.
You can buy a home in the centro for under 200K like this cave home (198K). I actually walked to the front door of this one while I was there and it’s on a really cute street close to everything. Perhaps by the time you read this, it will be sold…but it’s still a good example of what your money can buy. Since I was in Italy, the Euro has fallen dramatically against the dollar so it’s never been a better time to buy. As I write this, 1 EUR is worth 0.99 USD.
Here is a restored pied-a-terre with a little terrace for 158K. This one is smaller but more light-filled.
I’m a gardening and nature fanatic and towns like Pitigliano just feel too claustrophobic for me. I live in the middle of the woods right now, so this would require some serious thought. I’m not sure I’m ready to be surrouned by endless stone. Trees are very important to me. As a vacation place, the lack of a major airport within striking distance puts Southern Tuscany at a disadvantage. I would want to be able to get to a Freccia Rossa train station and international airport within an hour.
Orsini Palace, Pitigliano
There are a few sights in Pitigliano you shouldn’ t miss. One of those is the Orsini Palace. Founded in the 15th Century, the palace was enlarged by Count Niccolo II Orsini and modified in the 1500’s by Niccolo IV. Twenty one rooms are open to the public where you will glimpse restored frescoes, original furniture, jewelry, and objects of art. This gorgeous place is well worth the € 5.00 entry fee.
Finally, My Sandwich With A View
I unwrapped my pork sandwich which was warm from sitting in the car, and just wow. Between my hunger, the amazing flavor of the slow braised pork, and the view, I was in heaven. In Italy, the simplest food tastes divine.
I began the day by seeking out a proper Venetian breakfast. I found an adorable bakery and sat down. Needless to say I was not disappointed!
Afterward, I headed across town to Dorsoduro to visit the Gallerie dell’Accademia which houses the Vetruvian Man. I had blazed through there some twenty years prior and honestly didn’t remember much. I did, however, recall that the famous “Caga Libri” (Book Shitter) was in the vicinity and I was determined to find him.
The Cagalibri
I laughed so hard the first time I heard about this statue. Italians have a knack for making fun of art they don’t like by assigning funny names. Take Il Biancone in Florence, for example, or the Wedding Cake in Rome. The Caga Libri is no different. The statue of Niccolo Tommaseo, a famed linguist and journalist, stands prominently in Campo Santo Stefano. Sculpted by Francesco Barzaghi, the Carrara marble statue is one of three monuments carved to commemorate the 1848 revolution. The pile of books seemingly coming out from the writer’s coattails has given the monument a most undignified monicker. Leave it to Italians to find humor in just about everything.
Among my favorite works in the Galleria were Bosch’s Hermit Saints Triptych, the Mythological Scenes by Tiepolo especially those involving randy satyrs, Sebastiano Ricci’s Bacchanal in Honor of Pan, Francesco Zuccarelli’s Bacchanal, Antonio Joli’s Perspective of Thermal Baths, and Tintoretto’s St. George and the Dragon in which the princess seems to be enjoying that serpent between her legs a bit too much. Canova’s Paris had a perfect ass…seriously.
The day was beautiful and I didn’t want to miss lunch al fresco, so around 1:30 I left and sought a quay-side restaurant in Fondamenta Zattere. On the way, I passed the Squero San Trovaso (boatyard) which is one of only two squeri left in Venice where gondolas can be mended and built.
At Alle Zattere Pizzeria I ordered the cicchetti and the canneloni. Both were excellent as my pigeon friend can attest. I broke the rules and fed the poor fellow. The view was wonderful and the sun was shining and I felt lucky to be alive.
I took my time getting lost on the way back and explored Dorsoduro. I passed lovely bars, florists, and countless stores selling beautiful handicrafts. Later on, that night as I pondered this house hunt I looked up the rent in Venice and discovered that you could find a decent place for 750€/month which is pretty awesome. Maybe we’ll just live in Venice for a year.
My friend gave me a great tip when we had dinner and suggested I go up to the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi shopping center’s rooftop terrace to enjoy the views. The rooftop terrace is free but must be reserved in advance. The views are unbelievable. Sadly, my phone was out of battery and I couldn’t snap pictures.
That evening I made reservations at Ristorante Pizzeria Antico Gatoleto, a trattoria/pizzeria with very good reviews. I sat next to a lovely mother and daughter pair and had a wonderful conversation during dinner. One of the things I love about Venice is how worldly it is. The average resident often speaks three or more languages. Amazing.
Seafood antipasto
After dinner, a very cute waiter tried to take me home with him. He was very sad when I told him I was married. Italians are charming, I’ll give them that.
I took my time walking back to St. Mark’s feeling just a bit sad that I needed to head back to Orvieto the next day. Venice at night takes on a gothic and mysterious quality that I adore. I stayed out till midnight snapping pictures and enjoying the magic.
Here are some of my best nighttime shots, made me wish that I had a better lens than an iPhone, but I made it work.
The following day, I met K for breakfast, then made my way to the market. The Venetian farmer’s market is a wonder to behold. The sheer beauty and abundance of the products available are astounding. Cheeses, meats, fruits, herbs, fish, nuts, bread, pastries–it’s all for grabs here at awesome prices. I was seduced by the strawberries and tomatoes, both of which I bought. I also picked up a live basil plant which I managed to keep alive till the end of my trip. That little plant provided a lot of Caprese salads. So yes, I carried a bag of groceries from Venice all the way back to Orvieto. Those strawberries were worth it. I can get why Italians shop daily. The food is just so much tastier when it’s fresh.
God and Universe willing, it won’t be another 20 years before I return to Venice. I’m thinking maybe this fall?
I leave you with a quote by the infamous courtesan Veronica Franco.
“We danced our youth in a dreamed of city, Venice, paradise, proud and pretty. We lived for love and lust and beauty, pleasure then our only duty. Floating them twixt heaven and Earth…”
Prior to departing for Italy, I made loose plans with a friend to meet in Venice. I hadn’t visited Venice in twenty years and I felt the island calling to me. I think I had some past life there, long ago when Venice was the center of the world. Don’t ask me why but La Serenissima has always felt familiar in an uncanny way. As my friend’s plans changed, I remained determined to see Venice. I was in Italy, after all. I bought tickets on March 22nd at the Orvieto train station during which time I was stopped by police and asked for my papers. That confrontation sort of threw me for a loop. I’m authority averse and don’t take kindly to anyone asking me for any papers. Everyone in the terminal got asked for ID, so I didn’t feel singled out, but the event magnified some of the cultural differences between the US and Italy. Later that evening I went on to read a dissertation on your individual rights and the rights of police to search or otherwise ask for identification. Unlike in the US, police in uniform can randomly stop you and ask to see your ID. They can even search your belongings if they suspect drug or arms trafficking without a warrant.
The judicial system in Italy, in short, is quite different from that of the US and it’s worth a closer look. I had just finished reading The Monster of Florence: A True Story by Douglas Preston and Mario Spezi, which highlights the corruption of the courts and let’s just say that Italy has its fair share of problems like everywhere else. To this day the killers who murdered those couples in the Tuscan countryside between 1968 and 1985 are on the loose because the man in power decided to ignore all evidence and pursue a totally different group of people.
Alas, I digress. Back to Venice…
On the Freccia Rossa
A ticket to ride.
The high-speed train doesn’t stop in Orvieto so I had to take the RV (Regional line) to Florence to catch the Freccia Rossa. As you travel you start to learn how things work. The little green ticket stamping machines at all the platforms are used to validate your ticket. Once validated (punched) the ticket is good for travel within four hours. The large, red automated ticket selling machines at the terminals are hilarious though…as soon as you select “ENGLISH” the thing says, “WATCH OUT FOR PICKPOCKETS!” thereby alerting everyone at the train station that you are indeed a foreigner and that you have pockets that need picking. I seriously cracked up. These machines are sooo loud.
I boarded the train in Orvieto at 8am and arrived in Maria Santa Novella terminal in Florence two hours later. I had a twenty minute layover before boarding the high speed train. The Freccia trains offer free wifi, comfortable seating, charging outlets, and a snack service even in second class. First class gets you gourmet menus and more luxurious seats. While on the train it occurred ot me that I’d like to take every Freccia Rossa to every destination it stops at. Goals, you know…
At 1:30pm (right on time I might add) the train pulled into Santa Lucia station in Venice. When I saw water outside my window and the distant domes of the city I seriously welled up. I was overjoyed.
Then, when I stepped outside to all of that hustle and bustle of people, boats, bags, crisp blue water, and pastel colored palazzos I really lost it. I had to take a moment and just–cry. I think I texted my husband…I can’t believe I’m here! I’m in Venice. I’ve arrived.
I swear I felt like the luckiest person alive.
The Grand Canal
I could have walked to St. Mark’s Piazza from the terminal but I chose to take the longest vaporetto route along the Grand Canal to see all of those fabulous palazzi with their pastel hued plaster and grand arabesque windows. This was my fourth time in Venice, but it may as well have been my first. I experienced awe all over again…and again…and again…
What a place! What a fantasy!
Best Windows
I got off at the Rialto Bridge and joined the throngs on their way to Rialto. Twenty years had passed since my last visit, but I found that Venice had not changed. I joined the throngs of people and wove my way to the beating heart of Venice–Piazza San Marco. On my way I heard dozens of languages, and spied on hundreds of conversations. My ears filled with the cries of hawkers, the songs of gondoliers, the soulful notes of a distant piano. I dodged vegetable carts, strollers, Amazon delivery wagons, and countless waitors soliciting my appetite. At St. Mark’s I marveled at the cathedral for a good long while and took in the scene before walking over to the clocktower. My hotel room, you see, was supposedly in the clock tower itself! I nabbed a last minute deal on a place called simply Best Windows that claimed to have the very best view over the square. The door of this supposed wonder, however, was quite locked. The only instruction was to call the number listed.
When I called a rather agitated man answered. I could barely hear him over the noise of the square. “Come to Hotel Antico Panada,” he said in Italian. “It’s right around the corner.”
After a few wrong turns, I dipped under scaffolding and tarps and found the cozy, if dated, lobby of Hotel Paneda. The man behind the desk looked like he had run a marathon in his suit. Sweat was pouring from his face which he wiped over and over with a handkerchief. “I hope you don’t have large luggage,” he said, “because I can’t carry it. The room is up some flights, you see.”
“Non c’e problema,” I replied. “I only have a backpack.”
He appeared visibly relieved.
I followed this man through various alleys back to the piazza where he proceeds to hand me the keys to my room. We climb five stories to an unassuming door marked “Marco Polo” (of course). Along the way he asks me where I am from. Cuba. New York.
“Cubana! I love Cuba!” he tells me. “But you would not like my last name if I told you.”
“It’s not Castro is it?”
“Si, e Castro…”
We laugh.
I tell him that’s a terrible last name.
He opens the door to the room and my jaw drops. The description was right. This room had the best damn view in Venice. WOW!
“Bellisima vista!” I exclaim.
He wipes his forehead, nods and smiles, before scurrying back down the stairs.
I toss my backpack and rush to the window. I am at the very top floor of the palazzo adjdacent to the clock. I can hear the deep groan of the mechanism beyond the upholstered wall. Was this really my room? The row of windows faced the square laying bare all of Venice’s drama! The best part, this room cost me 100€ a night! I paid 208€ for two nights and that included the 8€ tourist tax. Score!
If you are headed to Venice and traveling light, book this room. You won’t get coffee machines or whatever but you will have the Best Windows in town.
Caffé Florian Is a Must
I could have stayed there for an hour staring at the tableau of humanity below, but I was in Venice after all and the piano player across the square reminded me that I hadn’t had the pleasure of Caffè Florian’s cioccolata in tazza in two decades.
Caffè Florian is considered the oldest Cafe in Europe and a symbol of Venice. Founded by Floriano Francesconi, the cafe opened on the 29th of December 1720. At that time it was called Alla Venezia Trionfante (Triumphant Venice) but the patrons soon began calling the establishment by its owner’s name. The cafe was renown for serving the finest teas and wines from all corners of the Venetian empire and counted among it’s glitterati, composers, poets, artists, and courtessans. A little known fact was that unlike other establishments, Caffè Florian was the only place that admitted women. This probably explains why Casanova chose it as his “hunting ground” in his never ending search for female company.
But back to the hot chocolate, this is no ordinary hot cocoa but an orgasmic Venetian experience not to be missed. I took a seat in the red velvet interior of Oriental room next to an Arabic family traveling from the UAE. It was a little meta to be surrounded by painted Arabic odalisques while overhearing a contentions argument over the color of the orange juice in Arabic. I assumed they were talking about the blood orange juice based on the fact that the waitor had to explain in English that indeed it was not tomato juice.
The cioccolata in tazza ran me 11€ and I paid it gladly. To this day, this is the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had. MarieBelle in New York city comes close.
When in Venice, Get Lost!
After my sugar boost I just walked. Strolling through Venice is one of the most rewarding travel experiences you can have. The whole city is a sensory treat. The architecture alone invites endless wandering. Yes, I took a lot of pictures. I think it’s impossible for anyone with an artistic eye not to want to capture everything.
And so I explored until the sun began to set and my feet ached. At around this time my friend K, texted me and asked if I wanted to have drinks. I was thrilled that she had found time to sneak away with me for a bit. I met K last year when I began house searching in Frosinone. She became my realtor agent, but also my friend. We just hit it off instantly. We headed out to a quiet enoteca where we enjoyed delightful conversation, and wine paired with Venetian cicchetti.
Enjoying that vino!
Cicchetti are small snacks or side dishes, typically served in traditional bàcari and osterias in Venice. Similar to Spanish tapas or Turkish meze, they’re little savory bites meant to go down with a glass of wine. We had bread with inventive toppings but my favorite was the baccala ala mantecata and the Sarde in Saor, a Venetian classic.
I am so glad that we managed to meet cause we had a wonderful time just chatting and catching up. K is the cutest.
After we parted ways I returned to my clocktower suite and indulged in the nighttime gothic splendor of St. Mark’s cathedral and the sea of reflections beyond. I could not have asked for a better day.
