Tag: umbria

The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly in Porano

By M

On April 2, 2022

While in Orvieto I wanted to get a better sense of the surrounding areas and the countryside. On March 21st (Monday) I took a long drive through Porano and Bolsena. Mondays are sleepy in these small towns and many of the restaurants and attractions are closed. Sadly while in Bolsena Centro Storico I didn’t get to go into the museums.

Porano is an idyllic Medieval hamlet surrounded by expansive countryside filled with birdsong. Along my way there I stopped to make way for a pheasant crossing the road. The medieval nucleus is encircled by fortified walls. The small church of San Biagio at its center dates back to the 14th Century and is frescoed by the Orvieto school.

Villa Paolina

Porano is also the location of Villa Paolina which I desperately wanted to visit, but it’s been closed due to COVID. I first learned of Villa Paolina from a coffee table book of Italian gardens.

Also known as del Corniolo, due to the abundance of these wild shrubs in the area, Villa Paolina is a vast complex that develops between steep tuff cliffs along the road that leads from Porano towards Bagnoregio. The foliage hides most of it from view and at the same time adds mystery. The villa stands at the end of a long tree-lined avenue and its park extends over 9 hectares. The park complex includes various garden areas with classical topiary designs, arboretums, and completely wild areas. The villa was built by the will of the Marquis Giovan Battista Gualtiero in 1706 on a pre-existing monastic structure and served as a summer residence. In 1874 the complex was transformed by the Viti Mariani family before coming into possession of the Casini family. Since the 1980s it has been owned by the Province of Terni. The home now consists of a central building with two side wings with an entrance from the garden via a double semicircular staircase. All the windows of the facade are arched and the interior is decorated in a nineteenth-century grotesque style. Etruscan tombs dating back to the 4th century BC have been found throughout its park.

I could totally see myself volunteering to do some gardening here or running some tours in English. What a fantastic place!

Castel Rubello

Porano is also home to Castel Rubello which many historians believe to have been built in the 11th Century, though its first mention in the town archives dates back to 1292. The castle was home to the powerful Monaldeschi of Orvieto (who owned Collelungo as well). In the 1500s ownership changed to the Valente family who transformed it into a villa. To beautify the castle they commissioned a renowned Umbrian painter named Cesare Nebbia to realize a cycle of marvelous frescoes, still perfectly preserved today. The Valente also added a monumental fireplace in 1541. In the 18th century the castle was taken over by the Salvatori family, and then by the Marinis whose last heiress got married in 1892 to the Marquise Nicola Serafini Trinci, whose heirs are the current owners of the structure. The Trinci if you recall also owned the ruined castle I hiked to atop Rasiglia.

On my way out, I stopped on the side of the road and walked through the fortified complex to admire the views. Looking around, I wondered if the family who owns the castle appreciates how special it is or if the place is just “another” country house for them.

I think it’s possible to book a private tour of the castle. I’d have to talk to someone from the area.

I searched all over the web for images of the interior of the castle with its frescoes and did manage to find one at a wedding planning site. That’s one incredible room.

All that Glitters…Is Not Gold

I really loved Porano as a town and I could envision myself there, but by the time I visited a second time, I had learned that the home I had connected with had some serious (and potentially very costly) structural issues. An engineering report has revealed that the house is leaning toward the garden side and that the only way to shore it up is to drive pylons into the foundation every eight meters. The cost I’ve heard to fix this has fluctuated between 17K-70K€ and that’s not counting the other refurbishments the house needs such as electrics, new heating implants, windows, kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Tossing money into the ground at an unseen problem is not an ideal way to start a real estate adventure in Italy, but alas, I’ve yet to see any other house that I’ve liked more than the one in Porano.

As it turns out, masonry buildings with a few years on their backs often end up presenting problems of differential subsidence that lead to the appearance of cracks on walls, floors, and load-bearing beams. The stability of buildings, especially when they rest on clay soils can fail and lead to settling movements and destabilization. Depending on the soil, buildings can begin to sink and shift. This movement can be exacerbated by temperature fluctuations, groundwater, drought, seismic events, and interventions nearby.

Fortunately, there is an effective solution to these problems. Micropalifcation intervention allows the transfer of the structural load to a denser layer of stable soil beneath the building. This process involves the use of small steel poles (around 100 mm thick) that can be applied to both ancient and modern buildings, in order to reinforce the foundations of deteriorated or heavily loaded areas. The whole process can be accomplished in 2-3 days. To learn more go to this page and hit translate.

The house, if you recall had a ruined granary leaning on one side. This building would have to be demolished in order for the micropali to be inserted. I don’t really care for this ruin so that didn’t bother me too much. The thing is…do I like this house enough to pay for this intervention? The agent suggested I make an offer taking into account the cost of this intervention ~50-70K€ less than the asking price. The way I see it, anything in this area is going to be expensive and will likely need restructuring, so at this point, I’m not sure.

We’ll see what my husband thinks of the home and go from there. I haven’t stopped thinking about it since I saw it. Sigh.

I’ve also received some pictures of the home’s garden in bloom, further tugging my heartstrings. I do seem to recall my husband saying he wanted to restore something…but do we have the stomach for such a project?

While I was inside the house I didn’t notice any major cracks on the walls, but maybe I wasn’t paying close enough attention.

Part of me says, forget it. Another part of me is saying, fix it. Needless to say, I’m more confused than ever!

The only thing to do now is to wait and look at this report and the engineer’s recommendations and cost breakdowns. If my husband likes the house, then we need to get second opinions from an engineer that is a neutral party (as this one is connected to the agent’s company) and go from there.

So…there you have it…

Refurbishing this house may cost hundreds of thousands when all is said and done. What the hell.

Exciting & Central Orvieto

By M

On March 31, 2022

In Italy, Travel

On March 20th (Sunday) I departed Todi for Orvieto. By this time I was feeling a little travel weary. The Hertz issue didn’t help one bit as it added about 7 solid hours of driving to resolve. But hey, I’m getting my fill of Italy, right? I had originally booked an apartment in Arezzo city center but decided to change my accommodations last minute so that I could explore Orvieto and its surrounds. I figured that since I had liked the one house, I should spend more time getting to know the closest large city and its surrounds. As you approach Orvieto, you pass through Orvieto Scalo, the modern, sprawling commercial area at the base of the city. This is where many of the amenities are located including pharmacies, supermarkets, shops, mechanics, hair salons, you name it. Anytime you see a city named Scalo it’s more than likely the commercial arm of the historic city on the hill. In Italy the law forbids new buildings to be erected inside historic centers and that’s why these Medieval cities remain so charming to this day. Yes, life can be a bit more inconvenient within the Centro Storico, but also more traditional. In fact, Italian tourism depends largely on the preservation of these sites. If anyone were allowed to build whatever, the character of these cities would have been destroyed long ago. And who wants to see a high rise next to the Duomo? In short, no one.

Orvieto Scalo is also where the train station is. Orvieto home prices are higher than any of the surrounding regions because of its transport links. From Orvieto, you can reach the center of Rome in an hour by car and Fiumicino in an hour and a half. The express train can get you to Rome at about the same time. Within 1:20 you can reach the sea and many parts of Tuscany. Two hours puts you in Florence by train or car from which you can access places like Venice, Bologna, and more. The proximity to beautiful Lake Bolsena and other cities in Tuscia like Viterbo is also a plus. It lies on the A1 highway which cuts down on travel time significantly from North to South. Ospedale Santa Maria Della Stella a relatively new multispecialty hospital services this area as well.

Parking in Orvieto is costly with the cheapest option costing 12€ a day, but if you’re willing to walk and take the funicular (€1.30 each way) you can park for FREE behind the train station. Parking in front of the train station in the piazza will still cost, mind you, but if you drive behind it there is a huge lot where commuters can park for free. Anyone can do it, you don’t have to be a resident. This lot is not guarded so you will park at your own risk, but I was told by several people including the ticket agents at the station that it’s very safe. I left my car parked there for three days at a time when I went to Venice and it worked out great. The Parcheggio Funicolare (View Google Coordinates Here) is really convenient and there is always space available. Either way, I found the walk into town rather pleasant and only used an hour or so of central city parking to move my suitcases. From the free parking lot to the Duomo is about a 1km walk along Corso Cavour plus the time it takes to ride the funicular, so plan your time accordingly. I think the funicular departs every ten minutes.

My Apartment in Orvieto

At my rented apartment (Casa Flavia), I ran into a bit of a snag because the owners said they didn’t accept credit cards through Booking.com and wanted only cash. This is not unusual in Italy so keep enough cash on hand just in case. The apartment was a little worse for wear, but at about $55 a night, I thought it afforded good value with its pretty decor and terrace. At the end of my stay, I gave them a mostly positive review. The strange skylight above the bathroom where the people upstairs kept their water bottles was a little weird, but (shrug) I didn’t care. The kitchen had everything I needed to cook some meals and the bed was comfy. The wifi worked great which is more than I can say for my place in Todi. I really enjoyed having breakfast in the morning al fresco.

The Duomo

After getting settled, I did what first-time visitors to this city do and walked to the Duomo. People have waxed poetic about the Duomo of Orvieto since it was built and there are many articles extolling its virtues, yet despite having read many of them I was unprepared for the sheer beauty of this gothic cathedral. Once in the vicinity of the Duomo your eye just keeps sneaking off to look at it. There is so much to take in and as the light changes throughout the day, so too does its magnificent facade. Sunlight does wonders for the glinting gold mosaics and the stark black and white stripes.

The cathedral is set in a vast square that doubles as the city’s living room. This is where tourists and residents alike come together to walk, play, dine, and converse. Fairs, markets, and various events, also set up shop in this pedestrian-only space. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that I took a gazillion pictures of this incredible building. Every time I passed it I had to gawk.

The Duomo took three centuries to complete. Just imagine that undertaking! The flagstone signifying the start of the construction of the church was laid in 1290, yet the cathedral wasn’t completed until 1591! I doubt we have the fortitude to build anything like this ever again.

Here’s an interesting little fact. The cathedral was originally built to preserve the evidence of a miracle–the Corporal of Bolsena. The Corporal of Bolsena dates from a Eucharistic miracle that transpired in Bolsena in 1263 when a consecrated host allegedly began to bleed onto a corporal (the small cloth upon which the host and chalice rest during the Canon of the Mass). Today the Corporal of Bolsena is preserved in a rich reliquary in the cathedral. The reddish spots on the cloth, upon close observation, show the profile of a face similar to those that traditionally represent Jesus Christ. It is said that the miraculous bleeding of the host occurred in the hands of an officiating German priest named Peter of Prague who had doubts about transubstantiation.

While I was admiring the inside of the cathedral I was lucky enough to be able to listen to the majestic organ. The organist played a medley of compositions for about ten minutes which was a real treat. These are some serious pipes. You can listen to a snippet below.

The Signorelli frescoes of the Last Judgment took two years to create and the exquisite 16th-century Pietà by Ippolito Scalza, eight. At every turn, there is some fascinating fact to discover inside this wonderfully gothic place.

One of the best things to do in Orvieto is just to immerse yourself in its history and its food. Most of the buildings in the city are made of Tufo and have that rustic reddish-brown color. There is seriously enough to see here for weeks! I think I craned my neck looking up at all the wonderful architectural features such as the arches in Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. Today the palace is used as a conference space and it’s not open to the public.

I was returning to Orvieto with my husband for a second week so I purposely didn’t do some sights so we could do them together. I did manage a visit to the Orvieto National Archaeological Museum next to the Duomo and the Museo Etrusco…which wowed me with its ceilings as well as its artifacts. I was so inspired by the motifs in the piano nobile that I might design some scarves using the photos I took.

Archeological Museum

The Archeological Museum has an extensive exhibit of Etruscan pieces discovered during recent archaeological digs around Orvieto. Many pieces were found in the northern section of the Crocifisso del Tufo Necropolis (which I have yet to visit). The museum is housed in a former papal fortress and is impressive indeed. Also on display are two Etruscan tomb interiors removed from the necropolis at Settecamini.

Etruscan Museum “Claudio Faina”

Orvieto is an Etruscan city and there is no better way to appreciate this culture than to see the treasures in the Etruscan museum. The Museo Etrusco Claudio Faina is set on Piazza del Duomo opposite the cathedral and offers excellent views of the church. The museum holds an important archaeological collection of Etruscan and Hellenistic works, mostly linked to the Orvieto area. Founded by a count in 1864, the collection began with vases given to the count by Napoleon Bonaparte’s niece. The Bonaparte family discovered the Etruscan necropolis of Vulci. The museum features Etruscan black bucchero wares, and 4th-century pots depicting Vanth, the Etruscan winged goddess of the underworld with snakes wrapped around her arms. My favorite piece was the monstrous mask. And those interiors…this museum is worth it for the views of the Duomo and the piano nobile alone.

Delicious Food

While in Orvieto I of course had great food! It’s artichoke season right now and this is the thing to have. I stopped in a trattoria called Il Malandrino (must return) and had the most delightful fried artichokes. Oh my god–they were good. Another evening I ate at a place called Trattoria del Moro Aronne and I was delighted with a traditional dish of salted cod in a raisin sauce (I know it sounds crazy) and pumpkin flan. The vino, of course, was flowing. Life is just better with wine.

Around Orvieto

I learned that the Mancinelli theater was all the rage so I booked tickets for a concert tomorrow performed by the Orchestra Filarmonica Vittorio Calamani. What better way to start my second week in Orvieto than with a concerto set inside a glorious Victorian theater? Teatro Mancinelli is an architectural marvel dating back to the 19th Century in the center of town. The ceiling is done with decorative idioms from Roman poet Orvieto.

I’ve taken a lot of photos around the city which if you haven’t guessed by now is among my favorites. The streets are buzzing and the shops are open for business despite the downturn. Windows greet you with typical products such as cheeses and hams, as well as ceramics, stationery, books, antiques, and more. There is a wonderful energy here in Orvieto and I’m getting the idea that it’s a pretty great place to call home. I’m feeling a little strange that I haven’t bought a damn thing in Italy except for food and a pair of socks, but anything I buy I may end up lugging back to Italy. 😀 I have bought myself the luxury of a six-week vacation and that is utterly priceless. I’ve done so much…and I’m so behind telling you about it.

An Afternoon in Amelia

By M

On March 31, 2022

In Italy, real estate, Travel

Amelia is not on most people’s radar when it comes to tourism and that’s part of its appeal. After picking up my THIRD rental car at Rome Fiumicino Airport (on March 19th), I stopped in Amelia for the afternoon. The drive from Todi to Rome twice in one day was nothing short of grueling and I needed to stretch my legs. The car I was given was an older blue Renault Clio. While more efficient than the previous boat, it didn’t have some of the newer Clio’s bells and whistles. Still, Apple Car Play worked just fine. The long drive proved to me just how convenient Orvieto was as a location. Todi adds a whole hour to the commute to Rome and the train station is not so convenient. Amelia is closer to Rome than Orvieto and is well served by good train service. I find that the countryside around Orvieto is prettier than around Amelia. There is more industry the closer you get to Rome. Orte to the South is even worse on that front. Around Orvieto, and in many parts of Umbria, the countryside is protected by law from urban sprawl. Lazio is a bit laxer with its rules in that regard.

One of the first things that struck me when I parked in Amelia was its massive megalithic polygonal curtain wall. Amelia is one of the oldest cities in Italy dating back to the seventh century BC.

Wow! I had seen massive blocks like these in the acropolis of Civitavecchia in Arpino last June and immediately made a connection. Amelia occupies a hillock in the southwestern corner of Umbria above the River Tiber to the east and the River Nera to the west.

Amelia is said to have been established by the legendary Umbri leader, King Ameroe, who named the settlement Ameria. As in most of Umbria, both Roman and Umbrian civilizations have left their mark. Fifty years ago, the well-preserved bronze statue of Germanicus was uncovered near Amelia. Though it has received little renown, this magnificent bronze is now displayed in a hall of the Civic Archaeological Museum. The statue depicts Germanicus, dressed in military armor, in the act of adlocutio: when, in front of the deployed army, the emperor used words to reinforce the soldiers’ morale before a battle. The most intriguing part of this statue is the imagery on Germanicus’ breastplate.

Germanicus Julius Caesar, the nephew of Tiberius, commanded the Roman forces in their campaign of 14-16 AD against the Germanic tribes. Three Roman legions were obliterated in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest in 9 AD. This battle is known as the greatest disaster in Roman military history.

Plans for revenge were started by Emperor Augustus and executed by his successor Tiberius. Germanicus was given command of eight legions (one-third of the Roman Army). A keen military strategist, Germanicus destroyed the German opposition and recovered two of the three legionary eagles which had been lost. Upon returning to Rome, Germanicus was given a triumph. Coins depicting him on a triumphal chariot were issued later by his son Gaius (future emperor Caligula). On the back of each coin is an inscription that reads, “Standards Recovered. Germans Defeated.”

In AD 18 he was given charge of the eastern part of the empire and fought in Asia and Egypt. The prince-designate of the Empire, died in Antioch (Syria) at the age of 34 in 19 AD. He passed away at the height of his political career and popularity.

Cuirass from bronze statue of Germanicus, early First century A.D., from Amelia. Museo archeologico di Amelia. (Photo © Soprintendenza per i beni archeologici dell’Umbria)

But back to the breastplate…what stands out is the elaborate muscular lorica with Achilles’ ambush on Troilus. Perhaps, the artist who sculpted the scene thought of Germanicus as the new Alexander and made reference to Achilles, Germanicus’ favorite hero. Or perhaps, he thought of the character of royal lineage who died young and by violent means, harkening back to Troilus. Alas, we’ll never know.

The Romans also made enormous cisterns beneath the city which unfortunately I couldn’t tour. I focused instead on tasting the local cuisine and exploring the city on foot to burn off calories. When visiting Amelia, do yourself a favor and park outside the historic center, this goes for many of the hilltowns in Italy.

As far as restaurants are concerned, I couldn’t have done better than ConVitto, a purveyor and producer of local food specialties as well as a restaurant with a grotto-like dining room. They had tables outside on the terrace as well but the day was a little chilly. The menu is truly inspiring especially if you go there in a group. The staff was kind enough to mix and match some items for me and everything I had was superb. Great atmosphere and great food, enough said.

I had seen a few properties in Amelia that intrigued me–and in fact, may intrigue you as well. One was an ancient palazzo with Roman mosaics in the cellar. The lack of a garden on this one was a problem for me, but for 75K€, it is a bargain in the city center. It’s enormous with vaulted brick ceilings, a panoramic rooftop terrace, and an inner courtyard.

Inside the walls, accessible through the Porta Romana, Amelia is a very well-preserved medieval city. The upper part offers a view of the Tiber Valley and in the center of the city lies Piazza del Duomo where the cathedral and the 30-meter-high Torre Civica (Civic Tower) are located. The Amelia Cathedral was built in 872 and totally rebuilt in Baroque style after a fire in 1629. Its current façade is in pink cotto and was completed only in the 19th century. The interior has works by Federico Zuccari, Lavinia Fontana, Agostino di Duccio, an organ from 1600, and a Turkish banner captured at Lepanto.

I had a peaceful time meandering the deserted meandering alleys and peeking into people’s secret gardens. I’m always amazed how Italians don’t bother much with their green spaces despite them being a rarity in city centers. I had fun photographing this ancient city, especially some of the smaller details that I found inspiring design-wise. And of course, I’m always keen to make friends with the local cats.

Day-tripping in Bevagna & Rasiglia

By M

On March 29, 2022

In Italy, Travel

Lunch in Bevagna

On Friday, March 18th I set out to visit Rasiglia but took a detour at Bevagna for lunch. The drive through the countryside was divine. Signs of spring are everywhere and more than once I had to just stop and take in the view. Pictures speak louder than words and yet they don’t quite compare to actual experience. Pictures can’t capture the crisp wind or the woodsy scent that fills these hills at this time. Farmers burn cut foliage to prevent disease.

Is it any wonder that the legendary account of Francis of Assisi preaching to the birds took place in a field outside Bevagna? The stone on which he allegedly stood when preaching to the birds is now in the Ciccoli Chapel of the Church of San Francesco.

Upon arriving in Bevagna I parked in the free lot and walked to the Centro Storico. Around lunchtime, Italian towns smell divine by the way. You get whiffs of garlic and savory roasted meats, it’s tasty.

Since I’ve been here I’ve just wandered into random places that seem appealing away from the tourist track and I haven’t been disappointed yet. Once I veered off the main street I found an adorable little doorway that I just knew promised good food. Inside Il Grottino, a warm fire crackled in a giant hearth that reminded me of home. In that moment (as with so many moments) I wished that my husband was with me. He would have loved this place. Instead of pasta, I ordered a truffle omelet, some roasted potatoes, and vino, of course. The omelet was seriously divine. Truffles and eggs go naturally well together.

After lunch, I wandered the town and took in the sights. The medieval village of Bevagna was originally an Etrusco-Oscan settlement. Around 80-90 BC it became a Roman municipium, called Mevania. Mevania is mentioned on several ancient itineraries, following the Vicus Martis Tudertium on the way out of Rome. The first historical mention of Bevagna coincides with the Roman conquest of Umbria with the famous Battle of the Sentinel of 295 BC. Bevagna was known for cattle breeding and became an important agricultural and strategic center thanks to its favorable position with great viability and its river port. During Roman times Mevania was equipped with a protective wall, a spa, and an amphitheater, of which some evidence remains.

If you’re interested in a more in-depth review of Bevagna’s ancient Roman remains, read Anne’s Italy Blog. There are fantastic mosaics here as well as Roman ruins to explore. I didn’t have time to do all of this because this was a pitstop on my way to Rasiglia, but I plan to return a few days from now with my husband. Bevagna is one place I think we should visit together. And anyway he has no choice since I’m driving.

Bevagna has some stunning shops along its main street. The ceramics totally drew me in. The main piazza is stunning as is its theater.

The church doors made me giggle they were so gorgeous. Seriously Italians take such pride in their doors!

Onward to Rasiglia

My drive from Bevagna to Rasiglia took me over the mountains and I passed some awesome scenery. I first heard of Rasiglia in Atlas Obscura, one of my favorite websites for off-the-beaten-track travel. Known as the village of brooks, Rasiglia is formed by a small enclave of houses surrounded on all sides by rushing streams. I parked on the road and followed the sound of babbling water to the center where a pool of crystalline water dominates the square. The first written accounts of the village date back to the 12th and 13th centuries when the waters of the Menotre River powered various mills. The water is pure and drinkable and in fact, you can drink it from many of the fountains scattered around town. The townsfolk make their living by selling souvenirs and handmade crafts to visitors. This enchanting fairytale town is crisscrossed by narrow streets with wooden bridges, streams, and rushing waterfalls.

As I meandered through Rasiglia’s streets allowing myself to be led by the soothing sound of the channels and collection pools. I wondered what it might be like to live in one of those little stone houses with that white noise in the background, and then I thought of summer days and tourists jam-packed at my windows. No thanks! There isn’t an inch of privacy in this village. The day I went there were very few visitors.

The water also has a cooling effect so I actually felt chilly. Luckily I had my winter coat with me. Around the village, there was a lot of restoration and construction work in progress. Several buildings were getting a facelift and down the road, modern houses were being built.

Rasiglia Castle

As I was driving toward the town I noticed an ancient and decrepit tower on the top of the hill, and of course, I had to climb it. The way is steep, but the views at the end are worth it. I felt like I had stumbled on some kind of vampire hideout and I got an idea for a short story. Turns out that the tower is what remains of the Castle of Rasiglia built in the 13th century by the affluent Trinci family. The Trinci is a historic noble family from Umbria with strong ties to nearby Foligno. The ruins of the tower were strengthened in 2006 and most likely won’t fall on you. If it does, don’t worry, the cemetery of the village shares the hill.

Further Out in Umbria: Exploring Collelungo in San Venanzo

By M

On March 29, 2022

In Italy, real estate, Travel

A study sponsored by Expedia, recently found that America trails behind the rest of the world in work-life balance. On the metric of paid vacation, Americans typically receive 15 paid vacation days from their employers but take only 12. Across Europe, paid vacation days are an undisputed right. Spanish workers, for example. are given 30 days off and take all 30. The same is true of the Finnish and French. Italian and German workers are given 30 days of vacation and take 25 and 28 of those days, respectively. Australians also benefit from a month off. What’s worse is that Americans report checking their email several times a day while on vacation and are often on call.

There isn’t a day that goes by that I don’t feel incredibly blessed and happy to be able to take such an extended break. Since I’ve been here several things have happened:

I’ve lost weight
My aches and pains have miraculously disappeared, including my neck and wrist pain for which I’ve been in therapy for the last 2 months
I have more energy than ever despite drinking a lot less coffee
I’m no longer suffering from mind fog or feeling anxious and sad
I’m sleeping better and feel overall optimistic
I’ve regained my confidence
I have not gotten a single headache since I got here despite averaging one a week back home

Perhaps it’s the sunlight, the food, or the daily exercise. Perhaps it’s having time away from everything. Whatever it is, Italy is agreeing with me. I’m a little travel weary because I’ve driven and seen A LOT, but that being said, I haven’t felt this good in ages.

My husband asked me today whether I could live here. The answer is, absolutely yes. I have felt so welcome here. Strangers have helped me solve many little problems during the last few weeks and have always been ready with a smile. I love that in smaller borgos people politely greet each other on the street. It’s been nice to see children play in the piazzas and teens interacting with each other rather than just their mobile phones. I like that signage along roads is limited. I could count the number of billboards I’ve seen driving around. The countryside is gorgeous in just about every direction and public transportation is a joy to use.

I know I haven’t updated in a while. I’ve been terribly busy running around and enjoying myself. So let’s go back nine days ago to March 20th (the day Hertz decided to sell my rental). I had seen an intriguing palazzo from the 1700s with a walled garden online in Collelungo (San Venanzo) and on a whim, I drove there from Todi.

Collelungo Is Tranquility Defined

Collelungo is a fascinating little corner of the world. Collelungo is mentioned in a land registry of 1292 in the Historical Archive of Perugia as the ancient Villa collis longis under the jurisdiction of the territory of Orvieto, hence the exact name of the place: Collelungo di Orvieto. From the 13th Century onwards it was under the jurisdiction of Orvieto, of which it was an outpost that dominated the Tiber river route and the Tiber valley. In 1295 the Municipality of Orvieto borrowed the sum of 1222 florins from Monaldo Monaldeschito in order to defend itself from conflicts with neighboring Todi, Viterbo, and Arezzo.

The Medieval Walls of the Castle of Collelungo

When the war was over, the municipality was unable to pay its debt and so it sold the Assets of the Mountain (Monte Peglia) with all the neighboring lands of Melonta, Terracane, Castelvecchio, S. Venanzo, Rotecastello, Ripalvella, and Collelungo to the Monaldeschi family who then fortified. In 1394 Monaldo di Bernardo di Monaldo feudal lord of the Guelph party, annexed these assets under the protection of Pope Boniface IX. In 1816, Collelungo became part of the municipality of San Venanzo.

The medieval walls are still standing and quite impressive with their intact watchtowers. The garden of the house I was interested in includes one said tower (the one in the front of the photo) inside which is a well. Inside the walls, there is an ancient building dedicated to St. Matthias the Apostle with frescoed walls, and in the parish church, known as the sanctuary of the Madonna Della Luce, it is possible to observe a precious 15th-century fresco of the virgin attributed to Pietro di Nicola di Orvieto.

The image of the Madonna della Luce remained hidden for several centuries in the old church by a layer of plaster which miraculously fell on April 24, 1827, at 9 o’clock. during the return of a procession. At first, only the face of the Virgin emerged, but strangely, the plaster continued to fall piece by piece until the full image was revealed. From that moment onwards the legend spread and pilgrims began flocking.

When I arrived, a funeral was taking place and it was a little awkward as this is a very small place (with only 168 residents). As I’m wandering the streets taking in the peaceful surroundings, two of the townsfolk approach me and introduce themselves. They are thrilled that I might be interested in this villa, you see, as they live across from it. “We can be neighbors,” they tell me. “This is such a wonderful villa! The cellar used to be the old post office. It’s from the 1600s. Surely there are not many places like this with such a beautiful garden”–they swoon–”with the old tower and the well. Come, let us show you.” Next thing I know we are through the gate. I follow them to the old tower and marvel at the deep well. With global warming and no rain for the last 100 days, having water is very handy. After our brief tour, we spend the next forty minutes talking. They tell me how wonderful the town is, how in the summer tables are set up outside and everyone eats dinner together. They were so sweet that I considered calling the number on the for sale sign. We’d literally have the best neighbors in the world.

Before I departed we exchanged email addresses and are corresponding with each other. They tell me that the town is served by fiber internet access and that the nearby train station of Marsciano will soon reopen. During the summer months, a bar opens at the entrance of town.

At 2+ hours to Rome, Collelungo is a tad too remote for us…but it’s got peace and quiet in spades.

A Day in Artsy Spoleto

By M

On March 22, 2022

In Italy, Travel

On March 17 I headed to Spoleto. The day was a bit gray but the rain held off as I drove through the mountain pass from Acquasparta. The road was a serpentine roller coaster straight out of a car commercial. Every turn revealed a little sliver of the majestic countryside. The drive put me in a zen kind of mood, apropos considering the only music actually downloaded on my iPhone was an album of Tibetan singing bowls. The hum of the bowls went rather well with the view of the mountains.

One section of the mechanized escalator tunnels

After parking in one of the public lots at the bottom of the hill, I walked to the mechanized plaza and began to ascend. I was very glad for the escalators as it would have taken hours to walk up to the Rocca. Even from the point where the escalators stopped, it was another 180 steps to the top.

The Rocca Albornoziana is an imposing fortress that stands on Colle Sant’Elia, strategically towering over the Spoleto valley. Its construction started in 1359 at the behest of Pope Innocent VI to re-affirm the papal authority in central Italy. The fortress became the cornerstone of the defensive system that controlled the Via Flaminia, from which military campaigns were launched to recover lost areas of Umbria, Marche, and Romagna.

Gazing at this gargantuan castle it’s impossible not to dwell on how much time, blood, and money has been spent in waging war. All of these castles that we romanticize are nothing if not the concrete manifestation of humanity’s thirst for greed, power, and destruction. Throughout history, the will of the powerful has resulted in much suffering. Speaking of suffering, the Rocca was a jailhouse from 1816 to 1982. During the 80s, an extensive restoration returned the Rocca to its original layout. Sadly, many of its pictorial treasures were lost by this time.

I learned that the Rocca houses a prestigious school to train students in book restoration. Students here learn the technical art of paper, document, and book preservation.

Lucrezia Borgia

One of the Rocca’s most famous inhabitants and ruler in her own right was the much-demonized femme fatale, Lucrezia Borgia. Lucrezia was the daughter of Pope Alexander VI (aka Rodrigo di Borgia) and his longtime mistress Vanozza dei Cattanei. Lucrezia’s hand was used to vie for power among the ruling families three times. Her first husband was Giovanni Sforza who held sway in Pesaro and Gradara. When the political winds changed in Rome, Pope Alexander VI bribed the Sforzas with a king’s ransom to annul the marriage. The Sforza elders then forced Giovanni to confess he was impotent and that he had never consummated the marriage. Unlike Giovanni, Lucrezia’s other husbands didn’t fare so well.

Lucrezia’s second husband, Alfonso d’Aragon, was cornered in an alleyway and stabbed in the back by assassins hired by her brother Cesare.

Lucrezia Borgia then married her 3rd husband, Alfonso d’Este, Duke of Ferrara. This marriage produced ten children but failed to quench her lust and she was reputed to have had many affairs. Modern-day historians tend to view her as a victim who was manipulated by her father and brothers, but I’m not so sure. She was a savvy businesswoman and intensely intelligent–a mover and a shaker not beyond using all her wiles to get her way. In 1499, her efforts paid off and she rose to become the Governor of Spoleto. When her father became Pope, Lucrezia was entrusted with the administration of all of the Vatican’s correspondence. Click here to read more about her life.

Inside the Rocca

The Rocca houses the Ducal Museum which features several masterpieces of Medieval art as well as icons and an archaeological section with excavated artifacts from earlier periods. At the Rocca you can purchase a pass for all the museums of Spoleto that saves you money on admission. I took advantage of this and visited almost all of the sites on the list. The views from the top are awesome.

After the Rocca, I wandered down through the warren of streets and began to discover this fascinating city. One of my favorite monuments was the Fontana di Mascherone known simply as Il Mascherone (the big mask). An inscription on it states that it was restored in 1736 suggesting that the fountain is much older. On the right, another small fountain bears the inscription “BIBE VIATOR” (drink, ye traveler), an invitation to quench one’s thirst.

Spoleto’s architecture is a wonderful hodgepodge of epochs. Along my walk, I passed the huge foundation stones of a former Templar cathedral (now someone’s courtyard), a palace reminiscent of Venice, countless churches, arching bridges, and peaceful piazzas. I paused here and there to peruse the wares of the shops as well.

Of course, all that walking made me hungry, and soon it was time for vino. At lunchtime the square smelled amazing, I kid you not. A little bit of garlic, a little bit of rosemary, roasted meat, and a hint of wood smoke. I stopped at a little place off the main square with an intriguing facade called Osteria del Matto and I was not disappointed. The menu of the day was beyond tasty. The meal began with a little slice of fresh sheep’s cheese and was followed by a selection of salumi and cheese, followed by mushrooms done three ways, followed by a farro risotto, a ricotta fritter, and finally a stunning pasta dish. The ordeal took almost two hours which was fine as I spent the time chatting with Tomasso, a fellow diner. Tomasso helps artists find residencies in the city and works closely with them to find them lodging etc. Fascinating guy. After this caloric insanity, it was time to KEEP walking.

After lunch, I visited the Roman house, an accidental and monumental discovery beneath the town hall. The space is tiny but so well preserved. I’m always awed by Roman mosaics. These people had serious patience to line up all those tiny tesserae into such beautiful patterns.

To continue the theme, I made my way to the Roman theater. The theatre at Spoleto dates from the middle of the first century BC and is built on a large artificial terrace. The oldest parts of the theatre were made from opus caementicium or Roman concrete and blocks of local limestone and bricks.

As I made my way to the Palazzo Callicola, I was stopped by an old man who tried to pick me up in a very charming way. When I tell him I have a husband, he scoffs. “One husband,” he says in Italian, “Bah. You look like you can handle several more friends.” The nerve!

Hilarious.

Palazzo Callicola is an edgy gallery that blends piano nobile with modern art. I’m not a huge fan of abstract art, but some of the pieces here were thought-provoking. I especially liked the gothic red lights in that hall of frescoes with all the upturned furniture. I got a lot of inspiration from the green crescent wallpaper which I think I may transform into a textile.

On my way out I stopped at the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The cathedral sits in a beautiful large square with plenty of room to breathe. I imagine that during the Festival of Two Worlds, this space is packed solid with people.

The Spoleto Cathedral was built at the end of the 12th century. Earlier, on this place, was an ancient Christian temple dedicated to the martyr Primiano di Larino. The crypt of San Primiano, from the 9th century, represents the only remaining element of the building that stood on this place.

Saint Primianus or Primianus of Larino (Italian: San Primiano or Primiano Martire) (d. 15 May 303 or 304) is the patron saint of Lesina, Apulia, in Italy. He is also a joint patron saint, with Saint Pardus, of Larino in the province of Campobasso. His feast day is celebrated in both places on 15 May with fireworks and music, but 28 April is the date elsewhere.

And with that, I concluded my day in this artistic corner of the world.