Category: Life

Too Tranquil Todi

By M

On March 19, 2022

Prior to my trip, I had built up Todi as the ultimate fantasy destination. Article after article touted its merits as a wonderful place to live. In fact, many American and British ex-pats have settled in this quiet corner in the last fifteen years. A little-known fact about Todi is that JRR Tolkien wrote his last draft for Return of the King here. The city itself reminds me of the White City.

It’s always a little daunting to navigate the historic centers in Italy as some have ZTL zones that can carry steep fines. One of the conveniences of the apartment that I rented was that it came with a resident parking pass. This is very handy because the public lots are nowhere near the Piazza del Popolo. My apartment was about an eight-minute walk uphill to the piazza where most of everything happens in Todi. The Piazza del Popolo is hailed as one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. It’s flanked by exquisite period buildings on four sides, creating a graceful and strangely symmetrical rectangular space. I arrived on a Sunday and the piazza was empty. Nothing gets done on Sundays in Italy. Sundays are reserved for family and dining at home. As a foreigner, Sundays can feel a bit lonely in Italy.

As I walked around Todi I became aware of just how hard hit this town was by COVID. I saw many “FOR RENT” signs hung on shop windows and closed restaurants. There are a number of commercial spaces for sale as well. Most of these spaces are not listed online. The signs usually just have a contact number. Tourism was keeping this city buzzing and when COVID hit everything slowed down. Restaurant owners are frustrated by all the empty tables. Italy only recognizes certain vaccines, so many Asian travelers are banned from entering the country.

Italians are naturally gregarious and are always curious about travelers. The conversation usually starts with, ‘Where are you from?’ When I tell them I am from New York, they chuckle. “New York is not America!” they say. I guess they perceive New Yorkers as being a lot saner than the rest of the US.

No matter what you’re doing in Todi, you will climb! This city is a cardio machine that will spike your heart rate to epic levels if you keep up a moderate pace. This city is located on an inland hill with very steep stairs, alleys, and streets. There are very few sidewalks so as you drive you are constantly on the lookout for people on the streets. Italian pedestrians do not shy away from cars, it’s up to you to navigate around them. This is why a small compact car is ideal. Some of these streets are no more than alleyways with inches to spare on either side of your mirrors.

I lined up a lot of houses to view in Todi, but within a couple of days, I knew it wasn’t the place for me. Todi feels far from everything and my drive back and forth to Rome to pick up my replacement vehicle from Hertz confirmed it. The drive was like going from New York to Boston and then some! 4+ hours.

I was hoping to be able to visit the many museums in the city but it was not to be. The Todi Underground is undergoing repairs and every single museum is temporarily closed. I managed to visit some of the churches and walk around, but that was it. The town felt eerily devoid of life. Maybe it’s the season or the effect of pandemic lockdowns…I’m not sure. On day three I began taking day trips to neighboring towns.

I’ve enjoyed my quiet walks through the warren of alleys crisscrossing the city. The entire place is an outdoor museum where you can admire a layer cake of history.

In the pre-Roman period, Todi was the most powerful fortress city of the Umbrias. The city bordered the Etruscans, and according to studies, despite the strenuous defense mounted by the Umbrias, the Etruscans conquered the settlement. Etruscan funerary furniture has been discovered in the city among other items. The Etruscans built very strong walls around Todi which today form the first set of concentric walls. Then, the Romans defeat the Etruscans and expand the city building the next set of concentric walls. After the Romans, Todi became a garrison of Goths and later of the Byzantines. Towards the end of the 6th century AD, it was occupied by the Lombards.

During the Middle Ages, Todi expanded once more and was fortified by the final set of concentric walls. Between the 13th and 14th centuries, the city engaged in exhausting struggles against neighboring towns, such as Orvieto and Spoleto. From the 14th century onwards, the municipal autonomy of Todi weakened, and the city depended more and more on the Church-State and the patronage of affluent families such as the Malatesta and the Sforza.

I feel as though I didn’t get to see Todi in its most complimentary light. I’ll have to come back in the future to sample all it has to offer. Summer seems to be when things pick up.

I dined around town and can recommend Pizzeria Cavour. The food was delicious and the panoramic view from their terrace was divine. Tazza d’Oro in Piazza Garibaldi is my favorite cafe. I’m ashamed to say that for the first time ever while in Italy I had a terrible slice of pizza and it was in Todi. I won’t mention the place, maybe they had an off night. 😀

Let’s Go Grocery Shopping

By M

On March 10, 2022

In Italy, Life

I’m staying in an apartment with a kitchen so shopping for groceries and cooking is part of the plan. Most Italian towns have little grocery shops (Alimentari) that sell daily essentials as well as fresh produce, some of them sell wine as well. Crates of seasonal produce can often be found on the sidewalks outside of these establishments. The produce is usually super fresh and super tasty. Two days ago I stopped in one of these shops for a bottle of wine and some cheese for my pasta. A decent-sized wedge of Parmigiano cost me 2.50€ and a very good bottle of wine, 9.50€. The shop owner was almost apologetic about the price of the wine. You can get an excellent local vintage in Italy for about 4.50€ a bottle.

Yesterday I finally made it to the local InCOOP in Soriano Nel Cimino. Coop is a system of Italian consumers’ cooperatives that operates the largest supermarket chain in Italy. This supermarket was on the smaller side but well-stocked. Prices for some products were a lot cheaper than what I would pay in the Hudson Valley, NY, and others higher. Fruit and vegetables, wine, cheese, pasta, and bread, were noticeably cheaper. Anything imported such as American cosmetics and toiletries were a bit more. I took quite a few pictures for my own edification. I couldn’t believe the price of shallots. We are paying $8/lb for them back home versus 1.33€ for 2.20 lbs (1kg). The price for gluten-free bread was a lot less than what we pay back home. But guess what…I can eat gluten in Italy without any problems. It’s one of the joys of being here.

The reason I noticed shallots is that we love roasting them with a balsamic and honey glaze but the cost has made this prohibitive. We’ve been using red onions instead.

Here are some pictures of the supermarket. Keep in mind that the prices are in kilograms not pounds. One kilo is about 2.2 lbs.

Shopping in Italy is mostly the same as back home with some very important differences. In Italy, it’s almost taboo to fondle the produce with your bare hands. This is not just a COVID thing, it’s a cultural thing. So let me explain how this works. If you’re shopping at a small store or at a stall, always ask permission before touching the fruit or veg. It’s customary for vendors to handle the produce for you, just ask for what you want. Some small groceries stores will give you a paper bag which you can fill and bring to the cash register, but larger stores such as supermarkets have rules. Rule #1: Use the gloves provided to handle the produce. Rule #2: Weigh the produce on the electronic scale using the proper code and affix the sticker on the bag before you arrive at the cash register.

Shopping carts in Italy cost a coin to use. To get your coin back, you have to put the cart back. Easy, peasy. Aside from carts, there are rolling baskets available usually by the door. Supermarkets sometimes require you to scan your receipt on the way out so if the exit doors aren’t opening, you know why. If you don’t buy anything, you may have to find a member of the staff to let you out.

Something else that we’re not used to–unrefrigerated eggs. In the US, eggs that aren’t refrigerated could cause salmonella poisoning—meanwhile, Europe considers it a health risk if eggs are refrigerated. This cultural difference stems from the way eggs are processed before they reach stores. American farms wash eggs to strip the cuticle, or outer protective layer, which prevents contamination outside the shell. Without the cuticle, eggs must be refrigerated to combat bacterial infection from inside. In Europe, it’s illegal to wash eggs, and instead, farms vaccinate chickens against salmonella. With the cuticle intact, refrigeration could cause mildew growth and contamination. Once you buy eggs, make sure to leave them on the counter. Here is something you may not know; eggs last a whopping 21 days on the counter. Refrigerated eggs last 50 days, but the eggs can absorb odors and flavors from other foods in the fridge. Countertop connoisseurs claim that room-temp eggs taste better. I’ll have to test the theory while I’m here.

I was missing my cat and spent quite a bit of time in the pet aisle to see the prices and the variety. Prices are comparable, variety was OK. If ever the Sugarloaf finds herself here, she will have to munch on Italian crunchies. 😀 Like back home, there’s a run on pet food here as well.

These strawberries from Basilicata tasted like candy!

Italy will charge for bags to encourage you to bring your own. I had a cloth shopping bag (a busta) in my backpack, so I didn’t need to pay for one. Then, I made like the townsfolk and lugged my grocery bag up a lot of hills and stairs to my hotel. Cardio, baby! Yesss…..

For dinner, I indulged in some spinach and ricotta ravioli and a glass of red wine. For dessert, I cracked open the strawberries and–OH MY GOD!–the flavor!!! These strawberries from Basilicata were divine. They were sweet like candy. Is this what strawberries are supposed to taste like? I think so! Truly, the produce I bought from the tomatoes to the mandarines was special. The flavors here are fantastic.

How different can it be… well let me tell you. I ate the whole container of strawberries in one sitting. These berries were juicy and tart, and just perfect. And they cost 3.43€–what!?? My husband bought the same quantity of strawberries yesterday and paid $6.99 for bland ones.

In closing, I’ve posted my supermarket receipt so you can see the prices.

I sense more strawberries in my future.

The Dream That is Italy: Six Days Before a 43-Day Journey

By M

On February 28, 2022

In Italy, Life

It feels strange to start a blog about my dreams and an upcoming trip to Italy just as war has broken out in Eastern Europe. Even as I type this I’m listening to the BBC Livestream about the evolving situation in Ukraine. Wars are horrific beasts with no concern for boundaries or human life. Military conflicts have a way of escalating until they become bonfires that consume everything in their wake. Watching Russians roll out mobile incinerators just as I am packing my bags made me feel an incredible sense of powerlessness. My excitement to go on my second-ever solo trip is tinged with anxiety, but I am more determined than ever to make it count.

If there is one thing I’ve learned from the last two years is that life is short. To quote Jim Morrison, “The future is uncertain and the end is always near.”

Early in 2020, my husband was laid off from his job after many years of loyal service. This blow coupled with a series of challenging family situations began a lengthy debate regarding our future and what we wanted out of life. We felt blessed to have the privilege to be able to make a life shift but had no idea what that change might look like. At 46 and 49, respectively, my husband and I became acutely aware that we weren’t getting any younger.

Eight years ago, my husband placed a magnet on the fridge in the shape of a speedometer with numbers ranging from 20-50. Beneath the number 50 in bright red letters is written the word RETIREMENT. Eight months before his 50th birthday, we are at a crossroads. Do we take the path least traveled or do we continue doing what society tells us we should? Do we choose courage or fear? The familiar or the unknown?

Almost every time we talked about doing something crazy and changing our lives, moving to Italy would inevitably come up. We often joked about buying a 1€ house and fixing it up. We daydreamed about cappuccino and dolci fueled mornings and lazy afternoons spent exploring European capitals.

Dreams aside, the reality of moving from one continent to another is not an easy decision. We have our family and friends to consider as well as our cat. Then there is our house in the Hudson Valley which we absolutely adore. On paper, Italy seems like an ideal place for early retirement. Italians don’t pay property taxes on their primary homes and have a very good (and affordable) healthcare system. Geographically speaking, Rome is a convenient hub for visiting all the places on our bucket list. A life where we don’t have to be glued to our computers also promises to be more active and healthier. Finally, Italy’s great year round weather, amazing food, and cultural richness is compelling.

Through the years we’ve visited Italy more than any other country. I first traveled there in 1990 when I was fifteen. The two-week whirlwind tour with my High School Italian Club began in Venice and ended in Naples with stops in Umbria, Tuscany, and San Marino. To this day I can recall the moment my jaw hit the floor as I looked up at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. All of Italy felt like a beautiful dream I didn’t want to wake up from.

Some years later my would-be husband wound up in Milan while working for Donna Karan and had similar revelations. We had both fallen in love with Italy long before we fell for each other. In fact, one of the first international trips we took together was to the Venetian Carnival of 2002.

As we explored our Italian options during the lockdown, I came across an article that said anyone with a blood relative born in Italy after 1848 could claim Italian citizenship. I mentioned this to my husband and he became intrigued. He knew he was half Italian, but didn’t know the family history. He immediately contacted his mom who had in her possession countless family records. Within a month, they gathered a treasure trove of paperwork including marriage certificates, photos, and naturalization records. His great grandfather Salvatore Garzillo and his Hungarian wife Barbara emigrated from Campobasso via the Port of Naples and entered the US through Ellis Island. Salvatore, known to friends and family as Solly, settled in the Bronx and became a mason and electrician. One of his daughters (the little girl on the right) became my husband’s grandmother.

After sorting the paperwork, my husband contacted My Italian Family, an agency specializing in Italian citizenships based out of New Hope, PA. After reviewing his case, they concluded that he was a good candidate for citizenship. Because he is a descendant of a female ancestor, the evidence must be presented in an Italian court and the case files translated into Italian. This has added to the cost, but we’re well on our way to proving his Italian descent.

For the last two years, we’ve devoured every article and blog post both positive and negative about a potential move to Italy. In June 2020 we traveled to Frosinone and came close to buying a stunning albeit dilapidated palace. We loved the house but weren’t sold on the location. Luckily for us, we were working with a superstar real estate agent who helped us every step of the way. I cannot recommend Via Vecchia enough. If you’re thinking of buying a home in Frosinone, there is no better team than Kylie and Antonio. Love them!

Here we are in the living room of the house we almost bought.

As the disappointment faded, I jumped back into the house hunt. This time, I focused my efforts north of Rome in the provinces of Viterbo, Terni, and Perugia. This is an area that we’ve visited several times and which we adore. Two hours from Rome and within driving distance to the Saturnia Terme is ideal. We love historic properties and aren’t scared of a bit of work. Every single property on my list is charming in its own way.

This journey is half research and half fun. Sure, I want to find answers to the existential questions that have plagued us for the last two years, but I also just want to live a little. Travel recharges my creative batteries, and Lord knows they need a reboot.

During the next forty-three days, I’ll be trekking Lazio, Tuscany, and Umbria to figure out if Italy is for us.

Can we live there? Yes. Do we want to? Time will tell.

Thus, I invite you to tag along with me for forty-three days and share my adventures.