Too Tranquil Todi

Prior to my trip, I had built up Todi as the ultimate fantasy destination. Article after article touted its merits as a wonderful place to live. In fact, many American and British ex-pats have settled in this quiet corner in the last fifteen years. A little-known fact about Todi is that JRR Tolkien wrote his last draft for Return of the King here. The city itself reminds me of the White City.

It’s always a little daunting to navigate the historic centers in Italy as some have ZTL zones that can carry steep fines. One of the conveniences of the apartment that I rented was that it came with a resident parking pass. This is very handy because the public lots are nowhere near the Piazza del Popolo. My apartment was about an eight-minute walk uphill to the piazza where most of everything happens in Todi. The Piazza del Popolo is hailed as one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. It’s flanked by exquisite period buildings on four sides, creating a graceful and strangely symmetrical rectangular space. I arrived on a Sunday and the piazza was empty. Nothing gets done on Sundays in Italy. Sundays are reserved for family and dining at home. As a foreigner, Sundays can feel a bit lonely in Italy.

As I walked around Todi I became aware of just how hard hit this town was by COVID. I saw many “FOR RENT” signs hung on shop windows and closed restaurants. There are a number of commercial spaces for sale as well. Most of these spaces are not listed online. The signs usually just have a contact number. Tourism was keeping this city buzzing and when COVID hit everything slowed down. Restaurant owners are frustrated by all the empty tables. Italy only recognizes certain vaccines, so many Asian travelers are banned from entering the country.

Italians are naturally gregarious and are always curious about travelers. The conversation usually starts with, ‘Where are you from?’ When I tell them I am from New York, they chuckle. “New York is not America!” they say. I guess they perceive New Yorkers as being a lot saner than the rest of the US.

No matter what you’re doing in Todi, you will climb! This city is a cardio machine that will spike your heart rate to epic levels if you keep up a moderate pace. This city is located on an inland hill with very steep stairs, alleys, and streets. There are very few sidewalks so as you drive you are constantly on the lookout for people on the streets. Italian pedestrians do not shy away from cars, it’s up to you to navigate around them. This is why a small compact car is ideal. Some of these streets are no more than alleyways with inches to spare on either side of your mirrors.

I lined up a lot of houses to view in Todi, but within a couple of days, I knew it wasn’t the place for me. Todi feels far from everything and my drive back and forth to Rome to pick up my replacement vehicle from Hertz confirmed it. The drive was like going from New York to Boston and then some! 4+ hours.

I was hoping to be able to visit the many museums in the city but it was not to be. The Todi Underground is undergoing repairs and every single museum is temporarily closed. I managed to visit some of the churches and walk around, but that was it. The town felt eerily devoid of life. Maybe it’s the season or the effect of pandemic lockdowns…I’m not sure. On day three I began taking day trips to neighboring towns.

I’ve enjoyed my quiet walks through the warren of alleys crisscrossing the city. The entire place is an outdoor museum where you can admire a layer cake of history.

In the pre-Roman period, Todi was the most powerful fortress city of the Umbrias. The city bordered the Etruscans, and according to studies, despite the strenuous defense mounted by the Umbrias, the Etruscans conquered the settlement. Etruscan funerary furniture has been discovered in the city among other items. The Etruscans built very strong walls around Todi which today form the first set of concentric walls. Then, the Romans defeat the Etruscans and expand the city building the next set of concentric walls. After the Romans, Todi became a garrison of Goths and later of the Byzantines. Towards the end of the 6th century AD, it was occupied by the Lombards.

During the Middle Ages, Todi expanded once more and was fortified by the final set of concentric walls. Between the 13th and 14th centuries, the city engaged in exhausting struggles against neighboring towns, such as Orvieto and Spoleto. From the 14th century onwards, the municipal autonomy of Todi weakened, and the city depended more and more on the Church-State and the patronage of affluent families such as the Malatesta and the Sforza.

I feel as though I didn’t get to see Todi in its most complimentary light. I’ll have to come back in the future to sample all it has to offer. Summer seems to be when things pick up.

I dined around town and can recommend Pizzeria Cavour. The food was delicious and the panoramic view from their terrace was divine. Tazza d’Oro in Piazza Garibaldi is my favorite cafe. I’m ashamed to say that for the first time ever while in Italy I had a terrible slice of pizza and it was in Todi. I won’t mention the place, maybe they had an off night. 😀