An Afternoon in Amelia

Amelia is not on most people’s radar when it comes to tourism and that’s part of its appeal. After picking up my THIRD rental car at Rome Fiumicino Airport (on March 19th), I stopped in Amelia for the afternoon. The drive from Todi to Rome twice in one day was nothing short of grueling and I needed to stretch my legs. The car I was given was an older blue Renault Clio. While more efficient than the previous boat, it didn’t have some of the newer Clio’s bells and whistles. Still, Apple Car Play worked just fine. The long drive proved to me just how convenient Orvieto was as a location. Todi adds a whole hour to the commute to Rome and the train station is not so convenient. Amelia is closer to Rome than Orvieto and is well served by good train service. I find that the countryside around Orvieto is prettier than around Amelia. There is more industry the closer you get to Rome. Orte to the South is even worse on that front. Around Orvieto, and in many parts of Umbria, the countryside is protected by law from urban sprawl. Lazio is a bit laxer with its rules in that regard.

One of the first things that struck me when I parked in Amelia was its massive megalithic polygonal curtain wall. Amelia is one of the oldest cities in Italy dating back to the seventh century BC.

Wow! I had seen massive blocks like these in the acropolis of Civitavecchia in Arpino last June and immediately made a connection. Amelia occupies a hillock in the southwestern corner of Umbria above the River Tiber to the east and the River Nera to the west.

Amelia is said to have been established by the legendary Umbri leader, King Ameroe, who named the settlement Ameria. As in most of Umbria, both Roman and Umbrian civilizations have left their mark. Fifty years ago, the well-preserved bronze statue of Germanicus was uncovered near Amelia. Though it has received little renown, this magnificent bronze is now displayed in a hall of the Civic Archaeological Museum. The statue depicts Germanicus, dressed in military armor, in the act of adlocutio: when, in front of the deployed army, the emperor used words to reinforce the soldiers’ morale before a battle. The most intriguing part of this statue is the imagery on Germanicus’ breastplate.

Germanicus Julius Caesar, the nephew of Tiberius, commanded the Roman forces in their campaign of 14-16 AD against the Germanic tribes. Three Roman legions were obliterated in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest in 9 AD. This battle is known as the greatest disaster in Roman military history.

Plans for revenge were started by Emperor Augustus and executed by his successor Tiberius. Germanicus was given command of eight legions (one-third of the Roman Army). A keen military strategist, Germanicus destroyed the German opposition and recovered two of the three legionary eagles which had been lost. Upon returning to Rome, Germanicus was given a triumph. Coins depicting him on a triumphal chariot were issued later by his son Gaius (future emperor Caligula). On the back of each coin is an inscription that reads, “Standards Recovered. Germans Defeated.”

In AD 18 he was given charge of the eastern part of the empire and fought in Asia and Egypt. The prince-designate of the Empire, died in Antioch (Syria) at the age of 34 in 19 AD. He passed away at the height of his political career and popularity.

But back to the breastplate…what stands out is the elaborate muscular lorica with Achilles’ ambush on Troilus. Perhaps, the artist who sculpted the scene thought of Germanicus as the new Alexander and made reference to Achilles, Germanicus’ favorite hero. Or perhaps, he thought of the character of royal lineage who died young and by violent means, harkening back to Troilus. Alas, we’ll never know.

The Romans also made enormous cisterns beneath the city which unfortunately I couldn’t tour. I focused instead on tasting the local cuisine and exploring the city on foot to burn off calories. When visiting Amelia, do yourself a favor and park outside the historic center, this goes for many of the hilltowns in Italy.

As far as restaurants are concerned, I couldn’t have done better than ConVitto, a purveyor and producer of local food specialties as well as a restaurant with a grotto-like dining room. They had tables outside on the terrace as well but the day was a little chilly. The menu is truly inspiring especially if you go there in a group. The staff was kind enough to mix and match some items for me and everything I had was superb. Great atmosphere and great food, enough said.

I had seen a few properties in Amelia that intrigued me–and in fact, may intrigue you as well. One was an ancient palazzo with Roman mosaics in the cellar. The lack of a garden on this one was a problem for me, but for 75K€, it is a bargain in the city center. It’s enormous with vaulted brick ceilings, a panoramic rooftop terrace, and an inner courtyard.

Inside the walls, accessible through the Porta Romana, Amelia is a very well-preserved medieval city. The upper part offers a view of the Tiber Valley and in the center of the city lies Piazza del Duomo where the cathedral and the 30-meter-high Torre Civica (Civic Tower) are located. The Amelia Cathedral was built in 872 and totally rebuilt in Baroque style after a fire in 1629. Its current façade is in pink cotto and was completed only in the 19th century. The interior has works by Federico Zuccari, Lavinia Fontana, Agostino di Duccio, an organ from 1600, and a Turkish banner captured at Lepanto.

I had a peaceful time meandering the deserted meandering alleys and peeking into people’s secret gardens. I’m always amazed how Italians don’t bother much with their green spaces despite them being a rarity in city centers. I had fun photographing this ancient city, especially some of the smaller details that I found inspiring design-wise. And of course, I’m always keen to make friends with the local cats.