On March 20th (Sunday) I departed Todi for Orvieto. By this time I was feeling a little travel weary. The Hertz issue didn’t help one bit as it added about 7 solid hours of driving to resolve. But hey, I’m getting my fill of Italy, right? I had originally booked an apartment in Arezzo city center but decided to change my accommodations last minute so that I could explore Orvieto and its surrounds. I figured that since I had liked the one house, I should spend more time getting to know the closest large city and its surrounds. As you approach Orvieto, you pass through Orvieto Scalo, the modern, sprawling commercial area at the base of the city. This is where many of the amenities are located including pharmacies, supermarkets, shops, mechanics, hair salons, you name it. Anytime you see a city named Scalo it’s more than likely the commercial arm of the historic city on the hill. In Italy the law forbids new buildings to be erected inside historic centers and that’s why these Medieval cities remain so charming to this day. Yes, life can be a bit more inconvenient within the Centro Storico, but also more traditional. In fact, Italian tourism depends largely on the preservation of these sites. If anyone were allowed to build whatever, the character of these cities would have been destroyed long ago. And who wants to see a high rise next to the Duomo? In short, no one.
Orvieto Scalo is also where the train station is. Orvieto home prices are higher than any of the surrounding regions because of its transport links. From Orvieto, you can reach the center of Rome in an hour by car and Fiumicino in an hour and a half. The express train can get you to Rome at about the same time. Within 1:20 you can reach the sea and many parts of Tuscany. Two hours puts you in Florence by train or car from which you can access places like Venice, Bologna, and more. The proximity to beautiful Lake Bolsena and other cities in Tuscia like Viterbo is also a plus. It lies on the A1 highway which cuts down on travel time significantly from North to South. Ospedale Santa Maria Della Stella a relatively new multispecialty hospital services this area as well.
Parking in Orvieto is costly with the cheapest option costing 12€ a day, but if you’re willing to walk and take the funicular (€1.30 each way) you can park for FREE behind the train station. Parking in front of the train station in the piazza will still cost, mind you, but if you drive behind it there is a huge lot where commuters can park for free. Anyone can do it, you don’t have to be a resident. This lot is not guarded so you will park at your own risk, but I was told by several people including the ticket agents at the station that it’s very safe. I left my car parked there for three days at a time when I went to Venice and it worked out great. The Parcheggio Funicolare (View Google Coordinates Here) is really convenient and there is always space available. Either way, I found the walk into town rather pleasant and only used an hour or so of central city parking to move my suitcases. From the free parking lot to the Duomo is about a 1km walk along Corso Cavour plus the time it takes to ride the funicular, so plan your time accordingly. I think the funicular departs every ten minutes.
My Apartment in Orvieto
At my rented apartment (Casa Flavia), I ran into a bit of a snag because the owners said they didn’t accept credit cards through Booking.com and wanted only cash. This is not unusual in Italy so keep enough cash on hand just in case. The apartment was a little worse for wear, but at about $55 a night, I thought it afforded good value with its pretty decor and terrace. At the end of my stay, I gave them a mostly positive review. The strange skylight above the bathroom where the people upstairs kept their water bottles was a little weird, but (shrug) I didn’t care. The kitchen had everything I needed to cook some meals and the bed was comfy. The wifi worked great which is more than I can say for my place in Todi. I really enjoyed having breakfast in the morning al fresco.
The Duomo
After getting settled, I did what first-time visitors to this city do and walked to the Duomo. People have waxed poetic about the Duomo of Orvieto since it was built and there are many articles extolling its virtues, yet despite having read many of them I was unprepared for the sheer beauty of this gothic cathedral. Once in the vicinity of the Duomo your eye just keeps sneaking off to look at it. There is so much to take in and as the light changes throughout the day, so too does its magnificent facade. Sunlight does wonders for the glinting gold mosaics and the stark black and white stripes.
The cathedral is set in a vast square that doubles as the city’s living room. This is where tourists and residents alike come together to walk, play, dine, and converse. Fairs, markets, and various events, also set up shop in this pedestrian-only space. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that I took a gazillion pictures of this incredible building. Every time I passed it I had to gawk.
The Duomo took three centuries to complete. Just imagine that undertaking! The flagstone signifying the start of the construction of the church was laid in 1290, yet the cathedral wasn’t completed until 1591! I doubt we have the fortitude to build anything like this ever again.
Here’s an interesting little fact. The cathedral was originally built to preserve the evidence of a miracle–the Corporal of Bolsena. The Corporal of Bolsena dates from a Eucharistic miracle that transpired in Bolsena in 1263 when a consecrated host allegedly began to bleed onto a corporal (the small cloth upon which the host and chalice rest during the Canon of the Mass). Today the Corporal of Bolsena is preserved in a rich reliquary in the cathedral. The reddish spots on the cloth, upon close observation, show the profile of a face similar to those that traditionally represent Jesus Christ. It is said that the miraculous bleeding of the host occurred in the hands of an officiating German priest named Peter of Prague who had doubts about transubstantiation.
While I was admiring the inside of the cathedral I was lucky enough to be able to listen to the majestic organ. The organist played a medley of compositions for about ten minutes which was a real treat. These are some serious pipes. You can listen to a snippet below.
The Signorelli frescoes of the Last Judgment took two years to create and the exquisite 16th-century Pietà by Ippolito Scalza, eight. At every turn, there is some fascinating fact to discover inside this wonderfully gothic place.
One of the best things to do in Orvieto is just to immerse yourself in its history and its food. Most of the buildings in the city are made of Tufo and have that rustic reddish-brown color. There is seriously enough to see here for weeks! I think I craned my neck looking up at all the wonderful architectural features such as the arches in Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. Today the palace is used as a conference space and it’s not open to the public.
I was returning to Orvieto with my husband for a second week so I purposely didn’t do some sights so we could do them together. I did manage a visit to the Orvieto National Archaeological Museum next to the Duomo and the Museo Etrusco…which wowed me with its ceilings as well as its artifacts. I was so inspired by the motifs in the piano nobile that I might design some scarves using the photos I took.
Archeological Museum
The Archeological Museum has an extensive exhibit of Etruscan pieces discovered during recent archaeological digs around Orvieto. Many pieces were found in the northern section of the Crocifisso del Tufo Necropolis (which I have yet to visit). The museum is housed in a former papal fortress and is impressive indeed. Also on display are two Etruscan tomb interiors removed from the necropolis at Settecamini.
Etruscan Museum “Claudio Faina”
Orvieto is an Etruscan city and there is no better way to appreciate this culture than to see the treasures in the Etruscan museum. The Museo Etrusco Claudio Faina is set on Piazza del Duomo opposite the cathedral and offers excellent views of the church. The museum holds an important archaeological collection of Etruscan and Hellenistic works, mostly linked to the Orvieto area. Founded by a count in 1864, the collection began with vases given to the count by Napoleon Bonaparte’s niece. The Bonaparte family discovered the Etruscan necropolis of Vulci. The museum features Etruscan black bucchero wares, and 4th-century pots depicting Vanth, the Etruscan winged goddess of the underworld with snakes wrapped around her arms. My favorite piece was the monstrous mask. And those interiors…this museum is worth it for the views of the Duomo and the piano nobile alone.
Delicious Food
While in Orvieto I of course had great food! It’s artichoke season right now and this is the thing to have. I stopped in a trattoria called Il Malandrino (must return) and had the most delightful fried artichokes. Oh my god–they were good. Another evening I ate at a place called Trattoria del Moro Aronne and I was delighted with a traditional dish of salted cod in a raisin sauce (I know it sounds crazy) and pumpkin flan. The vino, of course, was flowing. Life is just better with wine.
Around Orvieto
I learned that the Mancinelli theater was all the rage so I booked tickets for a concert tomorrow performed by the Orchestra Filarmonica Vittorio Calamani. What better way to start my second week in Orvieto than with a concerto set inside a glorious Victorian theater? Teatro Mancinelli is an architectural marvel dating back to the 19th Century in the center of town. The ceiling is done with decorative idioms from Roman poet Orvieto.
I’ve taken a lot of photos around the city which if you haven’t guessed by now is among my favorites. The streets are buzzing and the shops are open for business despite the downturn. Windows greet you with typical products such as cheeses and hams, as well as ceramics, stationery, books, antiques, and more. There is a wonderful energy here in Orvieto and I’m getting the idea that it’s a pretty great place to call home. I’m feeling a little strange that I haven’t bought a damn thing in Italy except for food and a pair of socks, but anything I buy I may end up lugging back to Italy. 😀 I have bought myself the luxury of a six-week vacation and that is utterly priceless. I’ve done so much…and I’m so behind telling you about it.
