So it’s been ages since I wrote about my Italian adventures earlier this year. After Venice, my days became pretty hectic and I didn’t have time to write. I thought I’d return to the blog sooner, but life has kept me pretty busy. I’m now back in the US and thinking about my journey so I’m picking up where I left off. If you’re still reading, thanks!
After departing Orvieto on March 27th, 2022, I drove to Maremma so I could spend a few blissful days decompressing in Saturnia. The weather would have other plans, but alas, I digress. On the way to Saturnia, I stopped in medieval Pitigliano. I had bought a delicious porchetta sandwich from a salumeria in Orvieto, and I thought I’d work off the calories on the streets of this Tuscan gem.
A Little About Pitigliano
Carved from volcanic stone, the town of Pitigliano is located near the thermal mineral waters of Bagno San Filipo. In 2021, I read a gothic romance written by Ouida (Maria Louise Ramé) titled In Maremma which sparked my curiosity about this portion of Tuscany. If you are looking for a gothic novel set in Italy, this book is a must. Musa, the star-crossed and defiant heroine, is a character you won’t soon forget.
If you are interested in learning a little more about Ouida (who moved to Italy from England), I recommend reading The Epitome And Portrait Of Modern Society: Ouida As Social Barometer Of The Victorian Era by Lorraine Michelle Dubuisson from the University of Mississippi. After reading several of her books, she’s become one of my favorite 19th Century authors.
Until the 19th century, the southern Tuscan area known as the Maremma was an inhospitable wasteland. Notoriously marshy, the area was plagued by black clouds of mosquitos infected with malaria and overrun by bandits. The Maremma was seen as a backwater and snubbed by Italians who preferred the milder and more tamed areas of northern and western Tuscany. In the 20th century, efforts to drain the marshes and cures for malaria turned this forgotten land into a desirable destination. Astonishingly fertile, the Maremma now yields a wealth of produce. Whereas Tuscany’s north is a magnet for tourists interested in cultural treasures, the Maremma’s hearty, wholesome food and wine attract gourmands from around the globe.
The countryside in the Maremma is truly stunning and unless you’re dipping into Saturnia at night, you’ll survive the mosquitos (more on this later).
Pitigliano is carved into the volcanic rock (tufo) and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Known as Little Jerusalem due to the large Jewish community that thrived within its walls in the 16th century, this Tuscan jewel lies at the crossroads of the Lente, Meleta, and Prochio valleys. Legend suggests that the ancient town was founded by a pair of thieves, Petilio and Celiano, who fled Rome after stealing Jupiter’s golden crown. The duo took refuge in the countryside caves beneath Pitigliano (I did say the Maremma was notorious for bandits), founding a community named Petiliano. The origins of the town date back to the Neolithic Age and later the Etruscans. The Etruscans favored plateaus, caves, and highly defensible areas (just look at Civita di Bagnoreggio & Orvieto) and hand-excavated their homes from the volcanic rock.
My first glimpse of this village from the parking lot was breathtaking.
When in Pitigliano, prepare to make very sharp turns as you scale toward the top. Whatever you do, don’t drive thorugh the main gate or you will face some serious penalties. Park outside of town in designated parking lots and walk.
Once inside the town, you will be treated to a feast of ancient architechture and winding alleyways bedecked with flowers. Unlike Spello, which is a bit too “Disney” for me, Pitigliano feels very much lived in. This is a working city that hasn’t yet been overrun by tourism. The views over the valley from its piazzas are stunning.
Pitigliano Real Estate
If you like cave homes and close quarter living within ancient walls, you’ll fall in love with this small town. If you like tall regal ceilings, vast palazzos, gardens, and parking spaces, you should look elsewhere. Pitigliano is a warren of tight alleyways and tiny dwellings. A bit of speluncaphobia is necessary to live like a proper Etruscan.
You can buy a home in the centro for under 200K like this cave home (198K). I actually walked to the front door of this one while I was there and it’s on a really cute street close to everything. Perhaps by the time you read this, it will be sold…but it’s still a good example of what your money can buy. Since I was in Italy, the Euro has fallen dramatically against the dollar so it’s never been a better time to buy. As I write this, 1 EUR is worth 0.99 USD.
Here is a restored pied-a-terre with a little terrace for 158K. This one is smaller but more light-filled.
I’m a gardening and nature fanatic and towns like Pitigliano just feel too claustrophobic for me. I live in the middle of the woods right now, so this would require some serious thought. I’m not sure I’m ready to be surrouned by endless stone. Trees are very important to me. As a vacation place, the lack of a major airport within striking distance puts Southern Tuscany at a disadvantage. I would want to be able to get to a Freccia Rossa train station and international airport within an hour.
Orsini Palace, Pitigliano
There are a few sights in Pitigliano you shouldn’ t miss. One of those is the Orsini Palace. Founded in the 15th Century, the palace was enlarged by Count Niccolo II Orsini and modified in the 1500’s by Niccolo IV. Twenty one rooms are open to the public where you will glimpse restored frescoes, original furniture, jewelry, and objects of art. This gorgeous place is well worth the € 5.00 entry fee.
Finally, My Sandwich With A View
I unwrapped my pork sandwich which was warm from sitting in the car, and just wow. Between my hunger, the amazing flavor of the slow braised pork, and the view, I was in heaven. In Italy, the simplest food tastes divine.
I promise I’ll write more soon!