Lake Bolsena is the largest volcanic lake in Europe. As such, the sand is a dark charcoal color lending the water a very interesting hue. Roman historic records indicate activity of the Vulsini volcano occurred as recently as 104 BC. The volcano has been dormant since then, but it’s Italy, so you never know. The two islands in the southern part of the lake were formed by underwater eruptions following the collapse that created the depression.
Some interesting facts about the lake. Bisentina is the largest island has a size of about 42 acres and is accessible by a ferry that departs from Capodimonte. On the island, there are Italian gardens, groves of evergreen oaks, and various monuments including The Malta Dei Papi, an ecclesiastical prison to house (or torture heretics) shaped from a small cave with a trapdoor placed at a height of 66 feet. Only in Italy.
Bolsena, as I mentioned in my post about Orvieto, is known for a miracle said to have occurred in the Basilica of Santa Cristina in 1263 when a priest, in doubt about the doctrine of Transubstantiation, reported bleeding from the host he had consecrated at Mass.
When in Bolsena you really begin to appreciate just how large this lake is. Peering over it you can see all the way out to sea where the wind turbines churn creating electricity. I had the opportunity to dine at a fantastic seafood restaurant with local residents who explained the various activities that go on at the lake. The street along the shore offers a long promenade of restaurants, bars, and beaches. Bolsena has a beach town vibe with an old movie theater and a well-preserved historic center.
Sadly, I arrived on a Monday when everything was chiuso. Even so, I had a great time admiring the town’s ceramics and architecture. I just loved the mythologically themed pots. So damn cool.
Castello Rocca Monaldeschi
The Rocca dominates the town and can be seen just about everywhere. The Medieval castle has an irregular four-sided structure with four square towers. At some point, the fortress was converted into a residence for the wealthy Monaldeschi family.
In 1156 Pope Adrian IV fortified the town to protect it from the barbaric incursions common at that time. Later in 1295, the walls of the town were reinforced and three more towers were built. Unlike some other castles, the Rocca at Bolsena endured much through the years. The castle was sacked, burned, renovated, turned into a prison, an arms depot, and finally a museum.
Fun fact: During renovations of the fortress in 1973 a “butto” (well) was found near the base of the main tower. In this butto were discovered countless ceramic chips from workshops in Orvieto and Viterbo (the oldest ones date back to 1300), intact vases, plates, and bowls. All of these items have been restored and are exhibited in the museum.
I took a lot of pictures as I strolled. Enjoy.
