This morning I woke up late and took my sweet time getting down to the main square for breakfast. I had my 2€ usual, a cornetto and a cappuccino. Today, the barista took the time to chat with me and ask me where I was from. He runs a tight ship at Cocoa Caffé multitasking like a pro. Bars in Italy are not what we think of when we think bar or pub. They are social hubs for the community and serve a lot more than liquor. In the morning, bars serve coffee and pastries, at lunch, they offer light fare, and in the evenings aperitivos. Bars often host soccer matches and other social events. They double as liquor stores as well. I took a picture of the menu so I could show you the prices. Yes, cocktails are 3-4€. Wonderful, no?
After breakfast, I drove to Bracciano to visit the castle. I took the scenic route through the mountains rather than the highway. The temperature was a balmy 58º and people were out and about enjoying the sun. I saw a lot of cyclers tackling hills on granny gears. More power to them, I think I’d be walking my bike up a lot of these hills.
Around Bracciano
I arrived in Bracciano in time for lunch and after a bit of exploring, sat down for a meal at Enjoy Restaurant. I ordered the salmon tartare and the Cacio e Pepe with black truffle. I literally giggled with my first bite of the pasta dish. The salmon was great, don’t get me wrong, but the black truffle pasta was insanely delicious. The portion was huge and I honestly couldn’t finish it. I felt terrible leaving half of it behind, but I didn’t want to get stuffed. I had a lot of steps to climb.
Odescalchi Castle
Alright, let’s talk about the Odescalchi Castle in Bracciano. To this day, this fortress remains a private home. Can you imagine? Roofing alone could bankrupt you, unless, of course, you charge admission! Admission to the castle and integrated museum costs 10€. If you have deep pockets like Tom Cruise, you can also have your wedding here! The sky’s the limit for the type of event you can host within its illustrious halls. What’s more, many films and TV shows have been filmed here such as Medici: Masters of Florence, The Agony and the Ecstasy, Othello, and others.
Well, I didn’t have to. I had the place to myself for hours! I swear there was no one else in sight! It was just me, ancient fortification, and views for miles! Castello Orsini-Odescalchi as it is formally known is located on the southern shore of Lake Bracciano (8th largest in Italy). Constructed in the 15th century, it combined the function of military defense and residence of the feudal lords of the period, the Orsini and the Borgia (Both papal families). This is one of the largest and best-maintained castles in Italy. And if you happen to be a D&D nerd like me, visiting is a must! At only 30km from Rome, it’s perfect for a day trip.
The visitor’s route takes you from the base of the castle to the belvedere, then inside the megalithic reception halls. Frescoed by Antoniazzo Romano and the Zuccari brothers, these rooms offer one of the finest examples of Renaissance interior design.
The construction of the Orsini-Odescalchi Castle was started by Napoleon Orsini in 1470 and completed by his son Virginio Gentil, in 1485. Francesco di Giorgio Martini was the architect. Over the centuries, the structure has been the backdrop of many feuds between the Colonnas and the Borgias. In 1494, the Orsini’s allowed Charles VIII of France and his troops to camp in Bracciano while on their march to Rome. This led to the ex-communication of the Orsini. In 1496, Pope Alexander VI sent his papal army to overtake the castle, but the Orsini resisted the attack. A few years later, Cesare Borgia, one of Alexander’s natural sons, failed as well.
Bad Wives and Even Worse Husbands
I used to write a column about infamous women who broke rules throughout history, so naturally, the story of Isabella de Medici piqued my interest.
The sixteenth century was a period of splendor for Bracciano and the castle. In 1558, the notorious Paolo Giordano I Orsini, married Isabella de’ Medici, daughter of Cosimo I, Grand Duke of Tuscany, and received the title of duke of Bracciano.
Born in Florence, she lived first in the Palazzo Vecchio and later in the Palazzo Pitti, spending much of her time as a child at her father’s ancestral country home, Villa di Castello. Like the rest of the Medici children, Isabella received a humanist education in the classics, arts, and music. A great beauty, she had a high-spirited and sometimes impulsive character that was once admired and criticized by her peers.
In 1553, at age 11 Isabella was betrothed to 12-year-old Paolo Giordano Orsini who was in line for the Duchy of Bracciano. Cosimo felt that an alliance with the powerful Orsini family could help secure his southern border.
The two married in 1558 in a semi-private ceremony held at Villa di Castello. After consummating the marriage, Paolo departed early the following day. Concerned by the spending habits of his new son-in-law, Cosimo decided to keep his daughter and her 50,000 scudi dowry in Florence, giving her greater freedom and control over her own affairs than was customary for Florentine women of the time.
It was probably during this time that Isabella fell in love with her husband’s cousin, Troilo Orsini. Troilo had been charged with looking after Isabella while her husband tended to military duties. Judging by the painting below, Troilo was far better looking than his oafish cousin. Can you blame the girl?
Following her mother’s death, Isabella acted as the first lady of Florence for a time, displaying the de’ Medici prowess for diplomacy and politics. She suffered several miscarriages and remained childless until her late twenties. In 1571 she had a daughter (Francesca Eleonora, known as Nora), and a son (Virginio) in 1572.
Isabella’s free-spirited personality created rumors with regard to the nature of her relationship with Troilo Orsini. Paolo was enraged but could do little but vent to his brother-in-law, now the Grand Duke Francesco de Medici. Francesco was irritated by his sister’s high status in Florentine society–a post he felt was better suited for his new bride. And so, the conspiracy began to eliminate her, but they had to bide their time. For as long as Cosimo lived, Isabella remained untouchable.
Upon her father’s death, Paolo forced Isabella to come to Bracciano.
Less than a year later, she lay dead.
On 16 July 1576 Isabella died unexpectedly at the Medici Villa in Cerreto Guidi during a hunting holiday. The story woven by her brother and husband was that she died “while she was washing her hair in the morning…and was found by Signor Paolo Giordano on her knees, having immediately fallen dead.” Shortly thereafter the Ferrarese ambassador, Ercole Cortile, obtained information that sheds light on what may have actually happened–homicide. He writes that Isabella was “strangled at midday” by her husband in the presence of several named servants.
Most historians assume that Paolo Giordano murdered Isabella, in reprisal for carrying on a love affair with his cousin Troilo Orsini, or that he acted on instructions of the Grandduke Francesco, Isabella’s brother. One scholar, Elisabetta Mori, has argued that Isabella de’ Medici died of natural causes and that the rumor that Paolo Giordano murdered her was spread by enemies of the Medici.
What really happened?
You decide.
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